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Shushenskoye village. The village of Shushenskoye on the river Shusha The village of Shushenskoye
Part VIII. Shushenskoye.

In this post there will be a lot of Lenin, a photo of a rural bullpen and a tavern, a story about a peasant deputy of the first Russian State Duma, but mostly huts, huts, huts ...

The word "Shush" is translated from the Turkic languages ​​as "bone", respectively, and "Shushenskoye" can be appropriately translated as "Bone". Initially, the river was called Shushya, and the name of the village was taken from the name of the river. Who was destined to colossally become famous and become famous throughout the communist world.

1. Now the museum from a political institution has painlessly become a skansen.

The first mention of the village has been known since 1744, since 1822 - the volost center of the Minusinsk district (okrug) of the Yenisei province. For a long time, by the way, it was called not "Shushenskoye" but "Shushskoye", which is phonetically more correct. And the city website is still called Shushka.Ru :)

Shushinskoe village. in 55 versts from Minusinsk to Yu.-V .. on the right bank of the Yenisei; it has a stone Peter and Paul Church, up to 250 houses and up to 1900 inhabitants of both sexes, a parish school with 40 students, a small almshouse, the volost administration of the Shushenskaya volost, the apartment of the judge of the 3rd section, a pier and weekly bazaars, and in general this is a trading village and one of the most prosperous and wealthy in the district.

Latkin N. Yenisei Province. Past and Present 1892

There were traditionally many exiles (both the Decembrists and even Butashevich-Petrashevsky himself), although it still cannot be compared with Minusinsk. Actually, one of the exiles brought world fame to a really very distant village.

In the meantime, to the point and to the facts.

To leave for Shushenskoye from Abakan is elementary from the same bus station. Approximately every hour a bus leaves and after an hour and a half (bypassing the familiar Minusinsk, the very beautiful Tagar Lake and a serious mountain pass with a rise above the cloud level) you land at a bus station that is not at all rural, but rather very solid.

2. On this.

Despite the population of eighteen thousand, Shushenskoye is still a village. Since Soviet times, the authorities have been going to make it a city and constantly the inhabitants shied away from this honor. In the frenzy of democracy in the 90s, even a referendum was held, but they could not change the mood of the natives. Residents see some benefits in this status and do not want to be a city.

How to get to the museum?

You need to go to the square in front of the bus station and find the path that leads obliquely to the left. It will take you to the central square. In general, Shushenskoye is a very lively and cheerful village - movement, people, market, bustle - there is absolutely no sleepiness of old Minusinsk in it.

For some reason, I imagined this legendary place in a completely different way - a continuous private sector, part of which was fenced off for the museum, dirty unpaved streets and all that.

This is not at all the case, in the center there are fearless five-story buildings, then cottages, and only on the outskirts are strong Siberian huts. Judging by the museum, where houses of a hundred and twenty years ago are collected, everything has changed very, very much.

The central square is power, a club, a church, a museum.

4. And this is the Peter and Paul Church.

Of course, the church has been recently restored, since it was beyond the strength of the orthodox party members to imagine the place of Lenin's exile with the church. In Ulyanovsk, for example, they demolished everything, cleaned it up. The only rural Peter and Paul church was demolished here in 1938, although the adored one got married in it.

5. The museum office is surprisingly dull and gray in appearance. One by one they are not allowed into the territory, but people, despite weekdays, eat and don’t have to wait especially.

6. The place is fashionable, the guests were different.

7. And now - Huts!!!

Story:
After keeping Vladimir Ilyich in prison for 14 months after an attack of active Marxism, the authorities decided to send this insurgent to Krasnoyarsk (but not to a resort, but to exile :), writing in the accompanying papers to the local authorities - decide for yourself where to keep him in your vast Yenisei province, only so that he does not appear either in the European part of Russia or abroad.

Having made acquaintance with the doctors, Ilyich got a certificate of his frailty and sickness and, therefore, did not go to the north of the province (like many others), but to the south, to the fertile Minusinsk district. It would seem that this is a harsh Siberia. But near Minusinsk, for example, beautiful watermelons ripen. Yes, and the local exiles compared nature no longer with an “icy hell” (like Turukhansk), but for some reason with Switzerland and Italy.

As a person in the care of the state, Lenin was paid monthly 8 state rubles. Is it a lot or a little? For the peasant, cash paper or copper money was generally a semi-fantastic matter. They appeared to him if he sold something (and did not naturally change, as was, in general, accepted). For exiles who did not have gardens and farms, these payments made it possible to lead a completely well-fed, but dull life. Therefore, the more obscene people tried to get some more work (although almost the entire civil service, education and health care were closed to the exiles).

Nadezhda Krupskaya tells us:
“The cheapness in this Shushenskoye was amazing. For example, Vladimir Ilyich for his "salary" - an eight-ruble allowance - had a clean room, feeding, washing and mending linen - and it was believed that he was paying dearly ... True, lunch and dinner were simple - for one week they killed a ram for Vladimir Ilyich, with which they fed him day after day until he had eaten everything; after eating, they bought meat for a week, a worker in the yard - in a trough where they prepared feed for livestock, chopped the purchased meat into cutlets for Vladimir Ilyich - also for a whole week ... In general, the exile went well.

But money was still needed - mainly for books (books were very expensive then, especially those that Ilyich preferred to read). Where can a state criminal get funds?

At first, he asked (and received in abundance) funds from his mother, and then, during the exile, he himself began to receive good fees for his creations that were relevant and consonant with the times.

In general, despite the gigantic Leniniana, the figure of the mother, Maria Alexandrovna Ulyanova (Blank), remained very, very mysterious. In the family, the eldest son turned out to be a regicide, the middle one had the grip of a bulldog and, with a tiny group of like-minded people, not only brought down the political system in the world's largest country, but also established himself as its political leader. Moreover, Maria Alexandrova never doubted the correctness of the actions of her sons and always supported them. Including financially.

The first impression of the “prisoner of tsarism” upon arrival was not joyful:
“The village is large, with several streets, rather dirty, dusty - everything is as it should be. It stands in the steppe - there are no gardens and no vegetation at all. The village is surrounded by ... manure, which is not taken out to the fields here, but thrown right behind the village, so that in order to leave the village, one must always almost go through a certain amount of manure.

8. First, Lenin settled in the house of the peasant Zyryanov (1840s) and lived there in 1897-1898).

But then the bride came to him (immediately with her mother, that is, a potential mother-in-law, moreover :)). The bride - Nadezhda Krupskaya - was the same exiled Marxist (only she was assigned to the settlement of Ufa), and she was familiar with the fiancé with a hat. And he was bored in exile, and she, in general, also had to improve her life, i.e. "two solitudes met." Well, the "cannibalistic" tsarist authorities allowed to change Ufa to Shushenskoye, in order to reunite with a potential spouse. Why not allow it, she is not asking for the Crimea and not for St. Petersburg.

9. The newlyweds looked like this. Average, I would say.

Volodya lost a lot of weight on state grubs and almost completely bald (by the age of 30), while Nadia was an ordinary girl from a good family "with ideals" and with a teacher's license.

For a long time, the authorities held back those who were getting married with a marriage license (what can be expected from these people?), but after inspired complaints from the authorities, everything was allowed. The mother of the bride insisted on the full wedding ceremony, but the story with copper wedding rings made of nickels is already known to everyone.

10. It was already crowded with the family in the old living space, and therefore the couple of exiles moved to Petrova's house (1898-1900). Sometimes they write - the house of the landowner Petrova - but where did the landowners come from in Siberia?

The hostess has her own separate entrance, in the photo on the right side.

In Soviet times, the guides said through their teeth very grittedly that the exiles and those offended by the tsarist government had personal servants. Now it is no secret that a 14 (15)-year-old girl, leading the main household, worked on the crooked "city" laborers. And she had her own room.

12. This one.

Poor, but even now many live worse.

13. And here is the main room of the exiles. I combined two photos to fit everything.

A table (for Nadezhda Konstantinovna, she performed the work of a secretary), a desk with a traditional green lamp (for Vladimir Ilyich), a wardrobe, a gun, beds, a door to the master's side, a stove.

The gun, as well as skates and many other things atypical for exile, were sent by Maria Alexandrovna. It was boring to sit back and write all sorts of dregs, so walking around the guests, trips to Minusinsk, hunting and skating on German (!) Skates on the ice of Shushi were practiced.

On February 11, 1900, the family of already hardened political exiles left this hospitable village, and the museum was organized only on the eve of the centenary of his birth, in 1969.

And now about the usual architectural and historical incarnation.

14. House of the exiled settler Karevich (second half of the 19th century).

15. But peasant settlers lived in such houses (1860). Many people know about the Stolypin program for resettling farmers in Siberia and the Far East, but the peasants fled from landlessness to Siberia before. And at first they lived in modest houses.

It is indicated that the owner is a migrant from the South Russian province.

16. Those who lived for more than three years (and they were already considered old-timers) had better houses - for example, the house of Ermolaev (2nd half of the 19th century). We will talk about the peasant Simon Ermolaev further, this is not his only house here.

17. Zheltovsky's house (1880) There is a whole estate of a peasant-cooper.

18. This is a garage with all sorts of things.

19. In general, the percentage of safety of houses is very high, the figure is called 87%.

20. Metal for a peasant is expensive.

21. It was a discovery for me that wealthy peasants even tried not to enter the clean half of the house, so as not to get dirty in their wealth. Therefore, they lived in the everyday half of the house, and came here only on holidays or with guests.

22. House of Cherkashin (1860) with luxurious shutters.

This is where the beekeeper lived.

23. And here is a fisherman. House of the middle peasant Potylitsyn (end of the 19th century).

In general, this seems to be a standard design of local houses, divided into two parts.

24. Backsides i.e. gardens. Even now, employees are seeding them, achieving authenticity).

25. Well with mechanization. An illiquid horse walked around in a circle (no one would put a good one on such a job).

26. River Shush in person. The beginning of June, and so cloudy!

27. This is how Shushensky Street looked like a hundred years ago. Only the road was dirtier.

In the foreground is Alikin's house (late 19th century).

28. I really like these gates. House of unknown owner 1870s

29. Here is this nondescript-looking house ...

30. ... has a gigantic yard and many associated rooms.

This is the house of Simon Ermolaev, a strong peasant who in 1906 became a member of not just anything, but the First State Duma. This story is ridiculous, like all Russian parliamentarism.

Having gone through many administrative slingshots (only two people were elected from the Yenisei province), he was convicted by the trust of the people, but did not have time to come to the opening of the work. But he managed to disperse and even signed the famous "Vyborg Appeal". It was a very powerful manifesto that led to the persecution and arrests of all its signatories.

The peasant Ermolaev was offered, for example, to serve three months in prison. And when it suits him. It was convenient for him in the winter - in the winter he served time. Here is a story about the people's choice.

31. Classic cellar.

In that Russia, where French rolls are frantically crunching to Schubert's waltzes, of course there was no crime, but in real life it was.

32. This is a rustic bullpen of the time. See the stakes? This is a volost government and a prison for three cells.

33. Everything was decided here, in the volost board. Simple offenses were dealt with on the spot and the outrageous punishment was also served on the spot. And the funny thing is that the clerk received money 10 times more than the volost foreman, chosen from the peasants.

34. Wooden dungeon of the regime.

35. Camera inside.

In total, there are two male and one female cells, where they were imprisoned for minor offenses. "Sutochnikov", as they would say now. The food for the prisoners was often brought by the wives/husbands/children who had them. At the state expense, they fed absolutely passportless vagrants.

36. In many houses there are various workshops. Here is a potter at work.

This is magic, of course, when a THING is obtained from filthy sticky clay.

37. Village store. Urban's house with shop (1880s)

38. An approximate assortment has been tested for decades. On the one hand metal...

39. ... and on the other - fabrics and shoes.

There was very little metal in the villages and it was highly valued. Cast iron, needles, samovars, agricultural implements - everything was expensive. There were no problems with fabrics in the village, only ordinary linen was very boring and therefore unfashionable. Therefore, the temple of consumerism offered beautiful printed chintz, silk, lace and other delights.

40. There are approximate prices, you can compare.

41. Tavern or, as indicated in the guidebooks, - "Drinking establishment."

42. Rack, tap, dishes. Only the environment has changed :)

In general, the peasants rarely came here and not at all because they did not like to drink. It’s just that there was no money for “state-owned bread wine”, so they tried to drive something alcoholic themselves.

43. Well, this is the estate of a large merchant, i.e. merchant. Lauer's house.

Well, the former Lenin Memorial now offers a completely authentic immersion in the world of not Central Russian, but precisely the Siberian village of a hundred years ago.

We will say goodbye to the Krasnoyarsk Territory on this and the next story will be about the Sayano-Shushenskaya hydroelectric power station named after P.I. Neporozhny, the largest in the country.

44. And for connoisseurs of provincial buses - the top flight units of the Shushensky ATP.

Shushenskoye (Shush) was founded in 1744 by Russian Cossacks. For the first time, permanent settlers in Shusha are noted on the border map of the Krasnoyarsk and Kuznetsk districts, compiled in 1745-1746, which shows a village of four households, the inhabitants of which “came here by themselves”, that is, they settled without permission. They were from serving Yenisei Cossack families - Ivan Kropivin, Vasily Plishkin, as well as Dmitry Konev and the peasant Savva Butakov.

In the second half of the 18th century, Shush had already grown into a large settlement with about 250-300 inhabitants.

After the reform of 1822, Shushenskoye became a volost village, where there was a transit prison, the residence of the superintendent of state-owned settlements, bread "shops" (storehouses), trading shops, and a drinking establishment.

Map of the Siberian Province of 1821

In Shushenskoye, the Decembrists, colonel-engineer Pyotr Ivanovich Falenberg and lieutenant Alexander Filippovich Frolov, were serving their exile. In 1860, M. V. Petrashevsky was serving his exile in Shushenskoye, and F. M. Dostoevsky was a member of the circle.

The village is famous for the fact that V. I. Lenin was exiled there in 1897 and spent 3 years in exile. After the death of V.I. Lenin in 1924, the united mourning meeting of the Shushensky peasants decided to buy out the house of P.O. Petrova, where V.I. Lenin, and open an exemplary house in it with a hut-reading room and a library.

In 1927 the first kindergarten was opened, in 1933 an agricultural technical school was established. In 1944, Shushenskoye became a district center, in the same year a district hospital was opened.

In connection with the activities to perpetuate the memory of V.I. Lenin, Shushenskoye became one of the most comfortable regional centers in the region. A developed infrastructure has been created here: a museum-reserve, camp sites, an extensive network of institutions and enterprises of communication, trade, and culture.

Shushenskaya land has nurtured many talented original people. These are musicians, excellent students and veterans of culture S. Shchukin - Honorary citizen of the village, Yu. Noskov, V. Ovcharov, composers - Yu. Naumov, A. Paramonov, S. Romanenko, poets - V. Kulesh, L. Kolesova, N. Nyudikova , F. Lipai, artists - A. Chekhlov, V Zuev, D. Pavlov and V. Sofrygin.

Shushenskoye has been the capital of the International Festival of Ethnic Music "Sayan Ring" for many times. And the prize - a branded bronze statuette "Golden Iria" - became a real "Oscar" for its participants.

In Shushenskoye, the shooting of the All-Russian TV program “Play, accordion!” took place twice.

The life of the village, its prosperity, well-being, comfortable microclimate, the prosperity of its inhabitants are made up of big and small deeds, the daily painstaking work of each of us.

Shushenskoye occupies a worthy place among the settlements of the Krasnoyarsk Territory.

Now the village of Shushenskoye, once turned into a Lenin museum, has become one of the central points for unforgettable travels in the Sayans, an ethnographic reserve unique for Russia and, at the same time, a still functioning memorial complex dedicated to the leader of the world proletariat. It is in the prosperous (by today's museum standards) Shushenskoye that you understand that the not so distant past of post-Soviet museums can become a reliable foothold for their breakthrough into the future.

However, despite its ideological bias, the Shushenskoye Museum is a special case. Only in the Krasnoyarsk Territory is the 100th anniversary of V.I. Lenin, which was celebrated in 1970, it was decided to celebrate not by laying the foundation of a new city and not by building a new blast furnace, but ... by reconstructing the village of pre-revolutionary times, which is a historical and ethnographic reserve. Metal fences, stone foundations, flowerbeds, asphalt and electricity, characteristic of Soviet times, were declared here as the main enemies. In contrast to this, the task of finishing the walls and ceilings of houses was to meet the standards of the end of the 19th century only before the shock brigade of plasterers-painters.

However, no special efforts were required for the reconstruction - the central part of Shushenskoye, reserved for the territory of the museum-reserve, has not changed much over the century. Not even all the streets were paved. Twenty authentic peasant houses of the 19th century have been preserved here, requiring only minor restoration (well, the resettlement of residents). Four more authentic houses from other parts of the village and one from neighboring Kaptyrev were added to them. Only three houses were rebuilt "antique", and one more - brick, upholstered with wood and artificially aged.

Speaking in the strict mathematical language of museum workers, the reserve is a genuine monument of the late XIX - early XX century by 86 percent (!). So it is understandable why, when in the very beginning of the 1990s the Leninist Museum, which found itself in a crisis, decided to change its orientation, the communist utopia was so easily replaced by ethnographic archaism. It was enough just to dismantle the odious expositions such as “Lenin and the Krasnoyarsk party organization” or “Gifts of workers to Lenin”, which were absurdly lodged in old huts, and restore their interiors with the corresponding attributes of peasant life ...

Moreover, exhibitions related to traditional folk culture began to gradually appear in the museum repertoire starting from the mid-1970s, and the so-called historical and everyday expositions were deployed in a dozen houses from the very beginning of the work of the reserve. Another thing is that on the main itinerary of the excursion, visiting the houses of kulaks and middle peasants or a public drinking establishment - a tavern was considered optional, and the museum’s methodological bureau itself repeatedly adopted resolutions such as the following, dated 1977: “Our museum is Leninist, has nothing to do with ethnography, there is no need to spend funds and distract employees. But in 1993, the "ethnographers" finally defeated the "Leninists", and the reserve "Siberian exile V.I. Lenin" became just a museum "Shushenskoye".

And visitors again reached out to the museum, but now not along the party and trade union lines, but in search of national identity. However, Shushensky is still very far from Soviet attendance records.

The cataclysm that could not be

When you get to Shushenskoye - either from the Asian-style lively Abakan, or from the very metropolitan populous Krasnoyarsk - this "urban-type settlement" (such is its official status) at first strikes with its lifelessness. Overgrown areas, forest thickets, giant wastelands - all this is in the very center of Shushenskoye. But gradually you begin to understand that this is not so much lifelessness as abandonment.

The village is quite inhabited, and on summer evenings the pier of the River Station is packed with local people relaxing with beer and barbecue. But the station itself, specially built a year before the opening of the reserve, has long been inactive - unprofitable. In the 6-storey hotel "Tourist" for three hundred places, the photographer and I were the only guests for some time. During the day in the village it is not so easy to find a place where you can have a bite - they eat their own at home, but strangers are not welcome here for a long time.

In short, the tourist mecca of the Soviet era has lost its former greatness, suddenly becoming unnecessary. After all, Shushenskoye owes only to Ilyich, whose place of exile was decided to be turned into a museum of national importance. As soon as Lenin "went out of fashion", the village rushed into the abyss of desolation. Life in it, of course, did not stop, but somehow wilted, having lost a serious energy supply. All Shushenskoye today is a museum-reserve of the wretched late Soviet life at the turn of the 1970s and 1980s, already forgotten in the capitals. This, of course, gives it some nostalgic charm, which, however, does not last long and is available only to visitors, and not to local residents.

A capacious symbol of today's Shushensky is the unfinished Celebration Square at the back of the museum, on which it was planned to install busts of Lenin's comrades-in-arms, light the Eternal Flame and arrange a museum exhibition hall equipped with the latest technology. In essence, now it is another wasteland, overgrown with grass, only it breaks through between the granite slabs that once paved the square. In the center of it is a monument to Lenin, opened in 1976, by the capital's sculptor Vladimir Tsigal: on a 9-meter granite column is the head of young Ulyanov, and next to the column is a giant granite book with Lenin's quote about "the theory of revolutionary Marxism." Tall trees have grown around the restless and constantly deserted square, and, if you look from the side of the Shushi River, it seems that Lenin's head looks out directly from the forest. “Head in the bushes,” we jokingly nicknamed this sad monument to the desolation of a once prosperous village.

It is reminiscent of the famous Zone from Andrei Tarkovsky's film Stalker, where abandoned industrial buildings, concrete hangars and the most unexpected objects scattered on the ground remind of the former luxury of a mysterious territory that has become wild due to some kind of catastrophe. However, in the case of Shushensky, one can do without mysticism - the nature of the cataclysm that happened here is quite obvious. Moreover, the village, unlike the fantastic Zone, has every chance to live a full, normal life again. And again, thanks to the same Leninist museum, which turned out to be extremely mobile and adapted to new social conditions.

Total installation

Today, the invisible protagonists of excursions around the Shushenskoye reserve are the natives - Siberian peasants of the end of the century before last, who earned money by beekeeping, fishing, cooperage or shoemaking, lowered the money they earned in a village shop or tavern, and sometimes for "drunken revelry" fell into prison during the volost government . And now the interiors of not only peasant huts and yard services attached to them, but also a prison, a store or a drinking establishment (the latter, very tiny, turned out to be a little like a cinema tavern - a shop counter, behind which they traded "drinking and takeaway", but one shop in the corner). Museum staff, dressed in blouses and sundresses, will demonstrate the work of a potter and a spinner. As a memento of Shushensky, the visitor will be able to buy an aspen spoon with a signature pattern made right in front of his eyes or a cedar bucket. In general, you can get to know rural life here by the method of "deep immersion" - there would be a desire and means.

Nevertheless, the former heroes, to whom the reserve owes its existence, are not forgotten here either, and sightseers are always taken to the two memorial apartments of the politically exiled Ulyanov, from which the museum in Shushenskoye began even before the war. The recreated small room in the house of the prosperous peasant Apollon Zyryanov, who always kept guests, and half of the house that Lenin rented from the peasant widow Petrova after arriving in Shushenskoye Krupskaya with his mother, are distinguished by a property that is generally characteristic of interior historical reconstructions in the reserve.

The surviving authentic items from Shushenskoye at the end of the 19th century are very organically supplemented here either by their “contemporaries” from other parts of Russia, or by recent copies indistinguishable from ancient originals. The main thing is to reproduce the general atmosphere of the dwelling, whether it is a very urban style, rich decoration in the house of the owner of the shop or the wretched life of a poor peasant who at the same time stitched his boots and rocked the unsteady baby. All the details of the environment, regardless of their age and historical value, interact with each other, creating a coherent impression of each museum space and forming an easy-to-read story about the life of its hypothetical inhabitant. "Shushenskoye" is not a sterile museum of folk life with individual exhibits in glassed-in windows, but a kind of artistic "installation" (to use the language of contemporary artists), an imitation of specific living spaces with the obligatory effect of the presence of their owners.

Of course, in the case of Lenin's apartments, this skill of the Shushensky "installers" is noticeable to a lesser extent. Firstly, the very genre of the memorial house-museum implies the re-creation of the original setting, the construction of some theatrical scenery, and very detailed and realistic. Secondly, the interiors of the exiled settler's cloister are themselves quite modest - a chair, a bed, a table or desk, shelves with books and an indispensable lamp with a green shade. But the painstaking work of museum workers can be judged by at least one detail. Here, for example, in Petrova’s house, in a tiny walk-through room that separates the dining room from the bedroom, skates hang on the wall: Krupskaya brought skates from St. So, the museum skates are a copy of the same, the German brand "Mercury", made on special order on the basis of research of genuine screws from fasteners found in Abakan from the heirs of the Pole Stanislav Naperkovsky, who was also serving a link in Shushenskoye. And what about the copy of the sheepskin coat in the same room, in which Ulyanov went to Minusinsk in winter? And a copy of the two travel baskets with which he came to Siberia?

It would seem that only under Soviet rule could museum life be devoted to recreating the skates or baskets of the leader of the world proletariat. But, having gone through this tough but useful school, now the employees of the Shushensky museum, with their usual passion, recreate the details of the life of not ardent revolutionaries, but ordinary peasants. And now, not only "Lenin's rooms", but the insides of almost all the buildings of the reserve are skillfully composed, spectacular, carefully thought-out "installations". And this is one of the main advantages of Shushensky over other ethnographic reserves, in which the emphasis is either on unique architecture (genuine wooden buildings, inside are either simply empty or generally closed to the public), or on boring museum-type historical expositions - with shop windows and whitewashed walls. In Shushenskoye, both the interiors and the “exteriors” of houses are equally fascinating and unique, the inspection of which can take place in the most unusual, playful form.

Attraction

"Theatricalization", "demonstration", "treat" - the favorite terms of the employees of "Shushensky". Beloved, because if these words are used here, it means that “special” tourists have arrived at the museum. For them, the folklore ensemble "Pleten", in which almost all museum workers participate, from a security guard to a deputy director, will arrange a theatrical performance (you can choose whether you want a wedding, you want a Cossack send-off to the army, you just want a village holiday). Museum workshops will be specially opened for them, and other employees will demonstrate how to mold and burn a pot, how to carve a barrel, how to weave a home rug or towel. They will surely pour a cup in the tavern, and in a special guest kitchen they will be treated to a Siberian bird cherry pie. So if we have already begun to describe Shushenskoye in terms of contemporary art, then it should be clarified: this is not just an installation, but an interactive installation, that is, implying the indispensable involvement of the viewer.

These musical and gastronomic attractions have two reasons. The first is aesthetic. On the one hand, the entire museum exposition stands on a harsh ultra-modern alarm system, so you can’t touch the unique exhibits with your hands. On the other hand, how can you find yourself in a Russian village and feel like you are in Versailles? And the discipline of a visitor to the reserve, standing at attention equally in Lenin's apartment and in a village shop, will be rewarded with street festivities.

The second is economic. The described entertainments imply an additional payment, and this is a significant increase in the budget of the museum, which, like all Russian museums, lacks public money. In 1991, having overcome a certain psychological barrier, the museum staff decided to pay for all their services. And now, for more than 10 years, museum workers have been practicing collective economic activity, getting rid of their former selflessness. In this regard, Shushenskoye is also a leader among its other brethren with a solid past.

However, Shushensky was lucky here too - neither in Ulyanovsk, nor in St. Petersburg, nor in Moscow, neither the Pleten ensemble, nor the bird cherry pie would be appropriate, even if the employees of Lenin's museums learned to sing, dance and cook. It's just that Siberia is Siberia, and its tourist resources are unlimited, just like itself.

History of Shushensky

The village of Shusha was founded by Russian Cossacks in 1744 as a place to spend the night and rest on the way to Krasnoyarsk and back at the mouth of the Shush River (the Turkic antonym "shushi" - "kind, bone"), which flows into the Yenisei. The famous Russian naturalist Pyotr Simon Pallas, the author of the book "Journey through different provinces of the Russian state", visited the upper reaches of the Yenisei in 1772 and wrote: "The village of Shusha consists of 26 households of wealthy peasants and 5 Cossack huts." In 1791, the stone Peter and Paul Church was built here (it was demolished in 1938, despite the fact that Lenin and Krupskaya got married in it), after which the village of Shusha received the status of a village and was renamed Shushenskoye. In 1822, Shushenskoye became the center of the volost. At the end of the 19th century, there were 26 kulak and 139 middle peasant farms, 69 poor peasants, and 33 families of farm laborers.

Due to its remoteness from major roads and railways, Shushenskoye became a place of political exile in the 19th century. The first Shushensky exiles were the Decembrists - Lieutenant Colonel Pyotr Falenberg (lived in Shushenskoye from 1833 to 1859) and Lieutenant Alexander Frolov (lived from 1836 to 1857). Further in Shushenskoye stayed: the author of "against the highest person of impudent verses" Pole Ippolit Korsak (1836-1841), a participant in the Hungarian revolution of 1848 Mazureytis Shlimon (1859-1860), the legendary revolutionary, utopian socialist, organizer of anti-government circles Mikhail Butashevich-Petrashevsky (1860), 22 Poles, participants in the Polish uprising of 1863 (mid-1860s), as well as members of the Polish revolutionary party "Proletariat" (1885-1888). Here, from 1886 to 1893, the populists Arkady Tyrkov (participant in the assassination of Alexander II), Pavel Argunov and Alexei Orochko served their exile.

On May 8, 1897, the exiled leader of the St. Petersburg Union of Struggle for the Emancipation of the Working Class, Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov, arrived in Shushenskoye, and on May 7, 1898, his fiancee Nadezhda Krupskaya joined him (they got married in July of the same year). Together with Lenin and Krupskaya in exile in Shushenskoye were the Polish Social Democrat Ivan Prominsky (1897-1900) and the Putilov worker, Finn Oscar Engberg (1898-1901). On January 29, 1900, at the end of the term of exile, Lenin, Krupskaya and her mother Elizaveta Vasilievna left Shushenskoye - forever.

On November 7, 1930, in the house of a peasant woman Petrova, in which Lenin and Krupskaya lived from 1898 to 1900, the Historical and Revolutionary Museum named after V.I. Lenin. In 1940, a memorial exposition was also opened in the house of Apollon Zyryanov, where Lenin lived in the first year of exile. In connection with the preparations for the 100th anniversary of the birth of V.I. On April 24, 1968, Lenin adopted a resolution of the Central Committee of the CPSU and the Council of Ministers of the USSR on the creation of a museum-reserve in Shushenskoye on the territory of 6.6 hectares and the general improvement of the village. April 12, 1970 State Memorial Historical-Revolutionary and Architectural-Ethnographic Museum-Reserve “Siberian Exile of V.I. Lenin”, consisting of 29 peasant estates with all outbuildings, was solemnly opened. Since 1993, it has become officially known as the Shushenskoye State Historical and Ethnographic Museum-Reserve.

In 1995, on the basis of the forest part of the museum-reserve, the National Park "Shushensky Bor" was created, located on the territory of which Sandy Hill, Crane Hill and a hunting hut near Lake Perovo are also associated with the name of Lenin and are considered his favorite places for walking.

An employee of the Shushenskoye Museum-Reserve with 23 years of experience, one of the authors of the new concept of its development, Deputy Director for Research Alexander Vasilyevich Stepanov spoke about how and why the museum was changing:
- A decisive turning point in the activities of the museum occurred in the early 1990s. Previously, the reserve was on the budget of the Central Committee of the CPSU, but after the August events of 1991, the financial activities of all party structures were suspended, and the accounts of the museum-reserve were also frozen. Moreover, as an ideological product of the outgoing era, it was in general threatened with closure. And then we - however, under the guidance of the metropolitan expert from the Russian Institute of Cultural Studies Nikolai Nikishin - began to write a new concept for the development of Shushenskoye, which was adopted by the administration of the Krasnoyarsk Territory at the end of March 1993. At the same time, the museum changed its name, turning from the memorial historical and revolutionary museum-reserve “Siberian exile of V.I. Lenin" to the historical and ethnographic museum-reserve "Shushenskoye". However, we have not completely abandoned the topic of political exile. They simply decided to show that the history of the village (which, by the way, will celebrate its 260th anniversary this year!) is not limited to Lenin alone.

His exile has become just one of the topics in the work of the museum. But others appeared - "The main occupations of the Siberian peasants of the late XIX - early XX centuries", "Crafts and crafts of the peasants", "Siberian Cossacks" and so on. The museum relied on theatrical performances-shows. We created our own folklore ensemble "Pleten" (even I perform in it), an ethnographic theater, a puppet theater like a street booth. And they achieved that even the Shushenians themselves began to go to the seemingly familiar museum for these very performances and museum holidays. According to statistics, now every resident of the village goes to the museum more than 5 times a year, while previously he visited it only 2 times a year. In general, in recent years the number of visitors has increased dramatically. Now we receive a little more than 200 thousand visitors a year, including foreigners. Last year there were guests from 30 countries, from Germany to Taiwan. For comparison: in 1992, only 120,000 people came to us. But the museum is still far from Soviet indicators - in 1987 there were almost 300 thousand visitors. There are fewer tourists from the European part of Russia - it has become expensive to get to Siberia.

To be honest, our museum, which, in general, has adapted to the new social conditions, was simply lucky - the ethnographic component was initially incorporated into the activity of the reserve when it was created, although, of course, the Leninist theme was then considered the main one. So it was easier for us to “rebuild” than for other Lenin museums in the country. But still, many issues in the future fate of the museum have not been resolved so far. Shushenskoye continues to develop - in order to survive.

Oddly enough, the main problem is how to talk about Lenin. Today's elementary school students simply do not know him: now there are only two paragraphs about him in textbooks. Those who are now under 30 and who grew up and studied during perestroika treat Lenin with indifference at best and do not want to hear about him - it is not interesting. Foreign tourists go in most cases for the Siberian exotic, and not for Lenin. Only the Chinese or North Koreans line up at attention at the monument to Vladimir Ilyich and are not interested in ethnography. But after all, one cannot completely exclude the Lenin theme from excursions around the museum. If only because he is an extraordinary theorist, the creator of an original, albeit utopian, concept of a socially oriented state. His book “The Development of Capitalism in Russia”, which he completed in Shushensky, is a real doctoral dissertation of an economist, written, mind you, by a man who was not even 30. And economists all over the world still refer to this book ...

Well, and one more new problem associated with the new economic conditions. The heirs of the owners of those peasant houses that are located on the territory of the reserve began to declare themselves. Just like in the Baltics... But they have no legal grounds for claims. The houses have been restored and rebuilt at the expense of the museum. The money that we have invested in the preservation of these buildings covers all possible amounts of compensation required. But a precedent is a precedent. People felt like private owners. What would Lenin say?!

Alexander Panov | Photo by Alexander Sorin

Coordinates

Name

Story

Shushenskoye (Shush) was founded in 1744 by Russian Cossacks. For the first time, permanent settlers in Shusha are noted by the border map of the Krasnoyarsk and Kuznetsk districts, compiled in 1745-1746, which shows a village of four courtyards, the inhabitants of which “came here by themselves”, that is, they settled without permission. They were from serving Yenisei Cossack families - Ivan Kropivin, Vasily Plishkin, as well as Dmitry Konev and the peasant Savva Butakov.

The foundation of the village on the Shush River was due to the very favorable position of this place, where the road from Abakansky to Sayansky prison passed, which also connected the mines with the Lugazsky plant (now the area of ​​​​the village of Znamenka).

In the second half of the 18th century, Shush had already grown into a large settlement with about 250-300 inhabitants.

In 1791, with the help of the peasants of the surrounding villages, the Peter and Paul Church was built of stone and, accordingly, Shushenskoye acquired the status of a village.

After the reform of 1822, Shushenskoye became a volost village, where there was a transit prison, the residence of the superintendent of state-owned settlements, bread "shops" (storehouses), trading shops, and a drinking establishment.

The Decembrists, colonel-engineer Pyotr Ivanovich Falenberg and lieutenant Alexander Filippovich Frolov, were serving their exile in Shushenskoye. In 1860, M. V. Petrashevsky was serving his exile in Shushenskoye, and F. M. Dostoevsky was a member of the "circle".

The village is famous for the fact that V. I. Lenin was exiled there in 1897 and spent three years in exile.

Population

Population
1970 1979 1989 2002 2007 2009 2010 2012
14 309 ↗ 16 868 ↗ 19 049 ↗ 19 067 ↘ 18 568 ↘ 18 564 ↘ 17 513 ↘ 17 336
2013 2014 2015 2016
↘ 17 040 ↘ 16 985 ↘ 16 943 ↘ 16 846

Economy

There is a poultry farm in the village. Tourism infrastructure is developing.

culture

The Historical and Ethnographic Museum-Reserve "Shushenskoye" (formerly "Siberian Exile of V. I. Lenin") operates in Shushenskoye. There is a regional cultural center (RCC), equipped with modern lighting and sound equipment. Since 1970, the Shushenskaya Folk Art Gallery has been operating, created on the basis of the collection of I. V. Rekhlov. On December 24, 2010, next to the checkpoint of Shushenskaya Marka LLC, a monument to Emperor Nicholas II was unveiled, which is a bronze bust on a high granite pedestal (sculptor K. M. Zinich).

In the village you can visit Lenin's Shalash (one of the most popular places for tourists).

Since 2003 (with the exception of 2006), the annual international festival of ethnic music "Sayan Ring" has been held in Shushenskoye. Since 1995, the Shushensky Bor National Park has been organized, consisting of the Perovsky forestry (located in the vicinity of the village) and the Mountain forestry (the region of the Borus ridge, Western Sayan, next to the Sayano-Shushenskaya hydroelectric power station). On the territory of the reserve there is a site of primitive man.

Born in Shushenskoye

  • In 1859, I. I. Kraft, the governor of the Yakutsk region and the Yenisei province, was born in Shushenskoye.
  • Simon Ermolaev - peasant, deputy of the First State Duma of the Russian Empire from the Yenisei province.

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Notes

Links

  • Alexander Panov.. // Around the world, No. 9 (2768), September 2004. Retrieved March 15, 2012. .

Literature

  • Bukshpan P. Ya. Shushenskoye. Memorial Museum-Reserve "Siberian exile of V.I. Lenin". - M., 1976.
  • Bykonya G.F. From the history of the settlement of the Minusinsk basin and the emergence of Shushenskoye // Essays on the socio-economic life of Siberia. - Novosibirsk, 1972. - Part 2.

An excerpt characterizing Shushenskoye

- How is your health now? - said Princess Marya, herself surprised at what she said.
“That, my friend, you need to ask the doctor,” he said, and, apparently making another effort to be affectionate, he said with one mouth (it was clear that he did not think at all what he was saying): “Merci, chere amie , d "etre venue. [Thank you, dear friend, for coming.]
Princess Mary shook his hand. He winced slightly as he shook her hand. He was silent and she didn't know what to say. She understood what had happened to him in two days. In his words, in his tone, and especially in that look—a cold, almost hostile look—one could sense an estrangement from everything worldly that is terrible for a living person. He apparently had difficulty understanding now all living things; but at the same time it was felt that he did not understand the living, not because he was deprived of the power of understanding, but because he understood something else, something that the living did not understand and could not understand and that absorbed him all.
- Yes, that's how strange fate brought us together! he said, breaking the silence and pointing to Natasha. - She keeps following me.
Princess Mary listened and did not understand what he was saying. He, sensitive, gentle Prince Andrei, how could he say this in front of the one he loved and who loved him! If he had thought to live, he would not have said it in such a coldly insulting tone. If he did not know that he was going to die, how could he not feel sorry for her, how could he say this in front of her! There could only be one explanation for this, that it was all the same to him, and all the same because something else, something more important, had been revealed to him.
The conversation was cold, incoherent, and interrupted incessantly.
“Marie passed through Ryazan,” said Natasha. Prince Andrei did not notice that she called his sister Marie. And Natasha, calling her that in his presence, noticed this for the first time.
- Well, what? - he said.
- She was told that Moscow was all burned down, completely, as if ...
Natasha stopped: it was impossible to speak. He obviously made an effort to listen, and yet he couldn't.
“Yes, it burned down, they say,” he said. “It’s very pitiful,” and he began to look ahead, absentmindedly smoothing his mustache with his fingers.
“Have you met Count Nikolai, Marie?” - said Prince Andrei suddenly, apparently wanting to please them. “He wrote here that he was very fond of you,” he continued simply, calmly, apparently unable to understand all the complex meaning that his words had for living people. “If you fell in love with him too, it would be very good ... for you to get married,” he added a little more quickly, as if delighted with the words that he had been looking for a long time and found at last. Princess Marya heard his words, but they had no other meaning for her, except that they proved how terribly far he was now from all living things.
- What can I say about me! she said calmly and looked at Natasha. Natasha, feeling her gaze on her, did not look at her. Again everyone was silent.
“Andre, do you want ...” Princess Mary suddenly said in a trembling voice, “do you want to see Nikolushka?” He always thought of you.
Prince Andrey smiled slightly perceptibly for the first time, but Princess Marya, who knew his face so well, realized with horror that it was not a smile of joy, not tenderness for her son, but a quiet, meek mockery of what Princess Mary used, in her opinion. , the last resort to bring him to his senses.
– Yes, I am very glad to Nikolushka. He is healthy?

When they brought Nikolushka to Prince Andrei, who looked frightened at his father, but did not cry, because no one was crying, Prince Andrei kissed him and, obviously, did not know what to say to him.
When Nikolushka was taken away, Princess Marya went up to her brother again, kissed him, and, unable to restrain herself any longer, began to cry.
He looked at her intently.
Are you talking about Nikolushka? - he said.
Princess Mary, weeping, bowed her head affirmatively.
“Marie, you know Evan…” but he suddenly fell silent.
- What are you saying?
- Nothing. There is no need to cry here,” he said, looking at her with the same cold look.

When Princess Mary began to cry, he realized that she was crying that Nikolushka would be left without a father. With great effort on himself, he tried to go back to life and transferred himself to their point of view.
“Yes, they must feel sorry for it! he thought. “How easy it is!”
“The birds of the air neither sow nor reap, but your father feeds them,” he said to himself and wanted to say the same to the princess. “But no, they will understand it in their own way, they will not understand! They cannot understand this, that all these feelings that they value are all ours, all these thoughts that seem so important to us that they are not needed. We can't understand each other." And he was silent.

The little son of Prince Andrei was seven years old. He could hardly read, he knew nothing. He experienced a lot after that day, acquiring knowledge, observation, experience; but if he had then mastered all these later acquired abilities, he could not have better, deeper understood the full significance of the scene that he saw between his father, Princess Mary and Natasha than he understood it now. He understood everything and, without crying, left the room, silently went up to Natasha, who followed him, looked shyly at her with beautiful, thoughtful eyes; his upturned ruddy upper lip quivered, he leaned his head against it and wept.
From that day on, he avoided Dessalles, avoided the countess who caressed him, and either sat alone or timidly approached Princess Mary and Natasha, whom he seemed to love even more than his aunt, and softly and shyly caressed them.
Princess Mary, leaving Prince Andrei, fully understood everything that Natasha's face told her. She no longer spoke to Natasha about the hope of saving his life. She took turns with her at his sofa and wept no more, but prayed incessantly, turning her soul to that eternal, incomprehensible, whose presence was now so palpable over the dying man.

 


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