01.12.2015

The narrowest strait of Russia is located in the Arctic Ocean, it separates the islands of the North and South of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago. The strait at its narrowest point is 600 meters wide. Its name is Matochkin Shar. The word "ball" in the language of the Pomors simply means "sea strait", and the name Matochkin (from the word "womb") was allegedly assigned to the strait because these places are very rich in game animals, especially birds.

From the Finno-Ugric "womb" is translated as "way" or "direction", as these peoples called the compass, and in this sense the name of the strait warns that it is impossible, life-threatening, to swim here without this device. Most Matochkin Shar is covered with ice. It freezes on November 11, opens only on July 10. When it is free of ice, you can go through here, because the strait has an impressive depth (average 12 meters, maximum up to 120 meters).

The width of the strait is narrow only in one place, although it is sufficient for the passage of ships. In other places, its width reaches 8 kilometers. However, now sailors know at what time and how to overcome this milestone, which many researchers have long and heroically studied. This corner reminds of the first Russian polar explorers and explorers, of disappeared expeditions and travelers.

The first reliable information about the strait was received from the helmsman, hereditary coast-dweller and original researcher Yakov Yakovlevich Chirakin in 1767, who in his report to the governor of Arkhangelsk reported that he passed between the islands of Novaya Zemlya by the strait repeatedly and even put a part of it on the plan. In order to “put the strait on the map”, an expedition of 14 people was equipped, including Ya.Ya. Chirakin, navigator Fyodor Razmyslov, navigator Matvey Rubin and other participants.

While wintering on the coast of Novaya Zemlya, Y.Ya. Chirakin and several of his comrades died of disease or disappeared, having gone hunting. The expedition of Fyodor Razmyslov, with great difficulty and losses, did a tremendous job, she gave the first descriptions of the strait in detail, which remain accurate to this day. In addition to Y. Chirakin, the expedition lost Andrei Pospelov from Yemetsk, Epifan Popov from Ludsky Posad, Dementy Bernov from Nyukhcha, and Ivan Kazimerov.

In the XX-XXI centuries, all the living things of the islands and the strait regretted that a man had once come here. In 1954, a test site for testing nuclear weapons of the USSR was opened on the archipelago. One of the three test sites was Matochkin Shar, where underwater tests of nuclear weapons were carried out. Until 1990, when a moratorium was declared, Novaya Zemlya had a total of 132 nuclear explosions, including a powerful hydrogen bomb.

: 73°23′19″ N sh. 55°12′56″ E d. /  73.38861° N sh. 55.21556° E d. / 73.38861; 55.21556(G) (I) Matochkin Shar- the strait that separates the North Island of Novaya Zemlya from the South and connects the Barents Sea with the Kara Sea. Matochkin Shar is quite deep (about 12 m), has anchorages (the best is at Cape Baraniy). The banks are high and sometimes steep. The length is about 100 km, the width in the narrowest part is about 600 m. It is covered with ice most of the year. On the coast at summer time there were long non-existing fishing villages Matochkin Shar and Stolbovoy.

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Notes

Sources

• Great Soviet Encyclopedia: [in 30 volumes] / ch. ed. A. M. Prokhorov. - 3rd ed. - M. : Soviet Encyclopedia, 1969-1978.

An excerpt characterizing Matochkin Shar

Matochkin Shar

Matochkin Shar

strait between about. Northern and about. South New Earth; Nenets ao. Pomor, the term ball - "strait", Matochkin - along the flowing into this strait R. Matochka, and its name can be elevated to Pomor, the name of Novaya Zemlya Matka.

Geographical names of the world: Toponymic dictionary. - M: AST. Pospelov E.M. 2001 .

Matochkin Shar

strait between Sev. and Yuzh. about you New Earth. Named for flowing into the strait. R. Matochka (ball in Pomeranian - "strait"). connects Barents and Kara Sea. Length approx. 98 km, naim. width 0.6 km, naim. depth 12 m. The banks are high, sometimes steep. B.ch. covered with ice.

Dictionary of modern geographical names. - Yekaterinburg: U-Factoria. Under the general editorship of Acad. V. M. Kotlyakova. 2006 .

Matochkin Shar

the strait between the Northern and Southern islands of Novaya Zemlya, connecting the Barents Sea with the Kara Sea. Length OK. 98 km, least latitude. 0.6 km, the smallest depth. 12 m. The banks are high, sometimes steep. Most of the year is covered with ice.

Geography. Modern illustrated encyclopedia. - M.: Rosman. Under the editorship of prof. A. P. Gorkina. 2006 .

See what "Matochkin Shar" is in other dictionaries:

Strait between Sev. and Yuzh. about you N. Earth. Connects the Barents and Kara Seas. Length 98 km, minimum width approx. 0.6 km, the smallest depth is 12 m. Most of the year it is covered with ice … Big Encyclopedic Dictionary

MATOCHKIN BALL, the strait between the North and South of you Novaya Zemlya. Connects the Barents and Kara Seas. Length 98 km, minimum width approx. 0.6 km, minimum depth 12 m. covered with ice. Source: Encyclopedia Fatherland ... Russian history

Exist., number of synonyms: 2 polygon (10) strait (24) ASIS synonym dictionary. V.N. Trishin. 2013 ... Synonym dictionary

This term has other meanings, see Matochkin Shar (meanings). Coordinates: 73°15′ s. sh. 55°00′ E  / 73.25° N sh. 55° E etc. ... Wikipedia

The strait between the Northern and Southern islands of Novaya Zemlya. Connects the Barents and Kara Seas. The length is 98 km, the smallest width is about 0.6 km, the smallest depth is 12 m. Most of the year it is covered with ice. * * * MATOCHKIN BALL MATOCHKIN BALL, the strait between the North. and… … encyclopedic Dictionary

The strait between the Northern and Southern islands of Novaya Zemlya. Connects the Barents and Kara Seas. The banks are high and sometimes steep. The length is about 100 km, the width (in the narrowest part) is about 0.6 km. Depth is about 12 m. Most of the year is covered ... ... Great Soviet Encyclopedia

Matochkin Shar- Sp Mãtočkino sąsiauris Ap Matochkin Shar/Matochkin Shar L RF tarp N. Žemės salų … Pasaulio vietovardziai. Internetinė duomenų bazė

Matochkin Shar- the strait between Northern and about. South New Earth; Nenets ao. Pomor, the term ball is a strait, Matochkin along the river flowing into this strait. Matochka, and its name can be traced back to Pomor, the name of Novaya Zemlya Matka... Toponymic Dictionary

The strait separating the northern island of Novaya Zemlya from the southern one and connecting the Severny with the Kara Sea. The strait, from Cape Stolbovoy to Cape Output, has in length. 83 century, along the bends of the 95 century, the width of the western mouth is 7 century, and the eastern one, at Cape Byk, 4 century; ... ... Encyclopedic Dictionary F.A. Brockhaus and I.A. Efron

Matochkin Shar- Matochkin Shar, the strait between the Northern and Southern islands of Novaya Zemlya. Connects the Barents and Kara Seas. The length is 98 km, the smallest width is about 0.6 km, the smallest depth is 12 m. Most of the year it is covered with ice … Dictionary "Geography of Russia"

To when our ship left the raid of the Pomeranian Bay and headed east, we could no longer sit in the cabin and, crowding in the wheelhouse, watched how every turn opened more and more panoramas, contrasting from the blue of the water, the whiteness of the ice and the darkness of the mountains ...
Our path lay to Novaya Zemlya, to the Matochkin Shar strait.

The Matochkin Shar Strait is not only the road of Pakhtusov and Tsivolka, Litke and Baer, ​​Holtedal and Vize, the path of discovery and fame of many explorers and navigators. This corner of Novaya Zemlya also reminds of the first Russian polar voyages and campaigns, of disappeared travelers and entire expeditions, it promises unread pages of the history of Arctic discoveries.

That is why, in addition to the special tasks of our expedition, we set out to find traces of the stay of the first Russian expedition to study Novaya Zemlya in Matochkin Shar. Its participants stayed for the winter in the eastern part of the strait in 17681769. There he graduated life path one of the leaders of the voyage, an original explorer of the Arctic Yakov Chirakin. ... In the 60s and 70s of the 18th century, the hereditary Pomor, a native of the Shueretskaya volost, Yakov Yakovlevich Chirakin, for nine years, sailed from the shores of the Icy Sea to the distant Matochka, as the greatest polar archipelago in Eurasia was called. The navigator's koch went from the mouth of the Dvina to the White Sea throat, leaving the rocky shores of the Tersky from the west, and the sandy shoals of the Zimny ​​coast from the east. There, on the sloping back of Kanin Nos, strewn with lichen tundra, those who went into the ocean were escorted by a high wooden cross set up by their grandfathers. "God, give us wind" was carved on its powerful dark crossbar...

From the Seven Islands, Koch Chirakina turned to the northeast, where the foggy "Stone in the Sea Belt" awaited him - the ridge of Novaya Zemlya protruding above the waters of the Arctic Ocean.

In the autumn of 1767, returning from another Novaya Zemlya voyage, the helmsman handed over a report to the office of the Arkhangelsk governor, which reported that he, Chirakin, “this New Earth passed across and through to another, called the Kara Sea, twice from there and returned to the White Sea by the same strait, and in one place he took a plan with his own hands.

The Arkhangelsk port office was faced with the question of exploring a new waterway that would lead to rich Siberia, to the shores of distant America. On the proposal of the office on November 16, 1767, the “Chirakin plan” was heard at the Admiralty College in St. Petersburg. By the highest rescript to the Arkhangelsk governor A. G. Golovtsyn, it was proposed to send an expedition to survey the unknown strait.

The leadership of the research was entrusted to the navigator Fyodor Rozmyslov. The expedition, in addition to Rozmyslov and Chirakin, included navigator Matvey Rubin, two sailors and nine Pomor industrialists. Only 14 people. For a long trip, the merchant Anton Barmin singled out a three-masted koch, which had been sailed many times.

The lengthy instruction given by the governor "to describe and inspect the strait found by Chirakin through Novaya Zemlya" defined in detail the tasks of the future voyage. It prescribed: “... having arrived at this Strait of Kara and this strait with parts of the land that you can see, put on the map, measure the depth of that strait and in what those islands and the strait latitude, and beyond the strait what position to places describe ; and if it would be possible for a large vessel to pass through it, then in that diligence to use ...

White, by the grace of God, and after crossing this strait, according to your inspection, there will be a sea beyond that strait capable of navigation, and there is no ice, but it will be impossible to have such vessels capable of passage to the mouth of the Ob River; everything is noted and described in detail. And if the distance turns out to be not far, then you won’t be able to enter the Ob river on this ship: and if there are no obstacles in that, then, having inclined the feeder and workers in a decent way, to the mouth of the Ob, or how much depth that river will allow; but if it’s not possible, then even if you make a voyage to the lip ... Over that strait, during the voyage to the mouth of the Ob River, you will see, and then describe in detail which ships, where and where, and with what and in what places they go ... »

A week after the start of navigation, Gusinaya Zemlya was opened from the side of the koch, and on August 15 the ship entered Matochkin Shar. Here, at the mouth of one of the rivers, an old fishing hut was found. In anticipation of wintering, the disassembled hut was loaded onto a ship, in addition to the one already captured from Arkhangelsk. “And in that it was decided, the head of the expedition wrote in the journal, in order to put them in different places for better fishing.”

Fearing shallows, further way Rozmyslov went on a boat, from which he carried out a sounding up to Cape Walrus. In the following days, he made his way to the eastern exit from Shar. The entire route to the mouth of the Shumilikha River was mapped and described in detail. However, it was not possible to enter the Kara Sea. “Opposite winds do not allow this,” the navigator noted in his journal. In the east of Shar, as a place for wintering, Rozmyslov chose the bay of the vast Beluga Bay, which he called Tyuleniy, “because there are many sea animals swimming in herds, beluga whales and various genera of seals”.

During the winter, the travelers were divided into two equal groups. The first, headed by Rozmyslov and Chirakin, remained on the shore of the Tyuleny Bay in a brought fishing hut. With the onset of cold weather, people "caulked the hut windows from the intolerance of snow and strong winds." The hut, brought from Arkhangelsk, was set up by the navigator Matvey Gubin with six workers on the banks of the Shar, near the Drovyany Cape.

Back in the fall, the expedition's feeder, Yakov Chirakin, fell seriously ill. In Rozmyslov's journal, he is listed first as "sick", then as "severely ill". And on November 17, Chirakin "ended his long-term suffering."

“His grave is near the hut where he lived. The coffin was lowered to a shallow depth and covered with stone slabs... Probably, it will not be difficult to find it,” Professor M. I. Belov, a connoisseur of the history of the development of the Soviet Arctic, wrote in our days in the book “In the Footsteps of Polar Expeditions”.

Of course, before heading to the place of the legendary wintering, we tried to determine its location as accurately as possible. To do this, before the start of the expedition, it was necessary to carefully study the documents of Rozmyslov's voyage, the travel records of subsequent researchers, and the works of historians covering the events of the tragic winter.

The first to discover the wintering places of the Rozmyslov detachments was P.K. Pakhtusov, who twice, in 1833 and in 1835, visited the eastern part of Matochkin Shara. He found Rozmyslov's hut already destroyed, with a collapsed ceiling and walls. It is known that Pakhtusov built a likeness of a houri here, in the stones of which a bottle with a note was invested, certifying the fact of the visit and the memorial significance of the ruins. Gubin's hut on Cape Drovyany was still in good condition by this time, and Pakhtusov left a supply of provisions in it for the detachment of Lieutenant Tsivolka, who was moving to this area.

Forty years after Pakhtusov, the vast cape separating Tyuleny Bay from the rest of the Beluga Bay was visited by the famous Nordenskiöld on the Vega. “I was on this cape in 1876,” he wrote. The walls of the hut survived, but the flat roof, covered with earth and stones, collapsed ... The small shack consisted of a vestibule and a room with a huge stove and decks.

In 1897, the wintering place was examined in detail by the English naturalists Feilden and Pearson. Their descriptions are very similar. On the already mentioned rocky peninsula, an artificial heap of stones was discovered. The grave was crowned with a wooden pillar, the transverse cutouts on which said that once there were crossbeams. A few steps from the grave, a pine board was raised, partly broken off, with the text carved on it: "Summer ... 835 ... a reminder to Orthodox Christians ... February ... the day on the spot ... Yakov Yakovlev Chirakin was buried." A copy of this inscription was sent by G. Pearson to Yu. M. Shokalsky. “This board with the Old Church Slavonic text,” Shokalsky said in a response letter, “commemorates the death of Yakov Chirakin, who was one of the members of Rozmyslov’s expedition, the feeder of his small ship ... I can tell you that in 1845 Pakhtusov was for some time in Matochkin Shar and it is most likely that the board was erected by his people.

Not far from the grave of Chirakin, the British discovered another one, and during subsequent searches they found three more burials ...

The ruins of the winter hut are preserved on a pebble terrace near the shore. Having removed the crowns and flooring, the English travelers found fragments of pottery, carpentry tools, pieces of matting, and fishing accessories. Pearson and Feilden also examined the ruins of Rubin's hut on Cape Drovyany, where a cross stood in memory of the wintering events, but no traces of burials were found.

Finally, V. A. Rusanov also mentioned the winter hut in Seal Bay. Judging by his diary entries, during the first trip to Novaya Zemlya, in 1898, the traveler landed in the bay on a karbas and, together with his companion, the French doctor Candiotti, visited a rocky cape crowned with a white cross. There Rusanov and Candiotti also saw the graves of Chirakin, his comrades, and the ruins of a winter hut.

When our ship anchored at the mouth of the Beluga Bay, we found ourselves, as it were, at the crossroads of two waterways. One of them was Matochkin Shar, the other was a whole system of valleys and gorges, occupied in the north by the waters of the Beluga Bay itself, and in the south by the river bed, which went upstream to nearby glaciers. At the corners of the "crossroads" peaked mountains rose, the steep slopes of which were covered with scree and firn fields. The harsh panorama was clearly reflected in the calm waters of the bay. Directly along the bow of the ship in the direction of Matochkin Shar, a rocky crest of the peninsula protruded, behind which a bay was guessed protruding into the land.

We boarded a boat and, rounding a rocky cape, entered the waters of Seal Bay. It turned out to be shallow, and the keel of the boat kept scratching the bottom. It was possible to approach the shore only after several attempts.

So, we reached that part of the coast where the events unfolded, traces of which we had to find. It was here that Rozmyslov filled the darkest pages of his journal, succinctly telling about the terrible winter. Let's turn these pages.

“The winter was very hard frosty, snowy and whirlwind; the winds blew incessantly ... the snows are very deep, so that our dwelling was covered with double snow, how high it was. And the unceasing night was with us from November to the first of February; and so in the aforementioned three months we already found no light at all and thought, as we passed, that we had not already lost the daylight forever. And so we continued our time in this desert in very poor health, for the smoke from the heating was unceasing and, after warming, there was always drops and cold from above, for nourishment we received water from the snow, which brought us great suffocation and coughing.

On January 31, Taras Kolyzanov, one of the workers at Drovyany Cape, went hunting for deer, fell into a snowstorm and did not return, "from which they put him among the dead without burial."
Then, one after another, the dates of the death of other winterers follow ...

July the time of the Novaya Zemlya spring. The snow-covered shell of the strait cracked, revealing a greenish layer of ice. Gusts of wind shifted the ice fields, freeing the expanse of water, making movement available in the open leads.

It seemed that for the surviving members of the expedition, exhausted by illnesses and the hardships of wintering, the time had come to say goodbye to the graves of their comrades, gather the rest of their strength and try to return home. But Rozmyslov decided otherwise. Already with the appearance of the sun, he resumed astronomical observations. Then, with the remnants of the detachment, he returned to the mouth of the Shumilikha River in order to continue the work interrupted by wintering on the description of Matochkin Shara. Finally, using the expression of the instruction given to him, he "decently persuades" his comrades to enter the Kara Sea. It goes east until it encounters impenetrable ice fields. Turns back. He opens a still unknown vast bay, giving it the name of the Unknown and ... buries another satellite in the ocean Vasily Myrtsov. Returning to Matochkin Shar, the travelers met here the ship of the Arkhangelsk peasant Vodohlebov, who took on board the remnants of the expedition, “for already on a fragile ship you can’t set off across the vastness of the sea, which is sentenced by law that you can get unauthorized death and be called murderers.” At the end of the fishery, the boat delivered Rozmyslov and his companions to Arkhangelsk.

Thus ended this unprecedented expedition, which collected the first geographical information about the previously unknown science of the central part of Novaya Zemlya. The expedition that first studied Matochkin Shar and carried out, according to F.P. Litke, these studies "so thoroughly that its description remains the most accurate to this day ...".

We spent the night on the shore of Seal Bay, by the fire. Having warmed up and banished sleep with a few sips of boiling water, they boarded a boat and moved to the opposite shore of the bay.

From the shore began the ascent to a narrow rocky terrace. We climbed it and found ourselves in a chaotic pile of boulders. Obviously, the graves should have been looked for on the cape, closer to the coastline, since it was difficult to imagine the very possibility of burial in this stone labyrinth. Making our way through piles of angular shale blocks, climbing rickety stone hillocks, we began to descend towards the southern tip of the peninsula. And among the dark stones they saw the same dark wood of the cross...

Yes, that was the goal of our search the graves of the brave northern sailors. On the top of one, larger stone structure, a small, still strong, wooden cross covered with greenish lichen with an indistinct inscription was fixed. On its upper crossbar was carved: "To Yakov Chirakin." On the bottom: "Steamboat Pakhtusov". The date was even lower: 1901. Apparently, this was the same cross that Rusanov saw in 1908. Then it was still fresh and white. However, unlike Rusanov's description, but in accordance with Pearson's data, there was not a "lonely grave" here. At a distance of ten meters, another member of the expedition found peace. But his grave turned out to be damaged... There was neither a cross nor any inscription that would have made it possible to find out the name of the pioneer of Novaya Zemlya resting here. In a small distance, the same collapses of stone slabs were visible.

When we reached the shore of the bay, we immediately came across the remains of the winter quarters of Rozmyslov's expedition. Only the lower crown of the hut has been preserved from the winter hut. It looked like a rectangle, about eight meters long and about four meters wide, with access to the south. A log has been preserved, which served as the base of the inner wall, which separated a small canopy from the living quarters. Thus, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe residential part of the hut is a little more than fifteen square meters. The wood of the only surviving crown was stratified, partly crumbled, and the palm felt only stronger transverse branches. The surface of the tree was covered with a thin layer of green moss. Avaricious traces of a miserable dwelling that once served as a shelter for a detachment of brave ...

The names of those who remained here forever are not engraved either on gravestones or on a memorial plaque. According to the historian N. Chulkov, the list of participants in this Arctic voyage was not found even in the "expedition file" stored in the Arkhangelsk archives. Using the records in the Central State Archives Navy Rozmyslov’s journal, we have the opportunity for the first time to name the peasants and sailors, those who, together with Yakov Chirakin, were interred on the peninsula in his name in the spring of 1769:
Andrey Pospelov from Yemetsk. Epifan Popov from Ludsky Posad. Dementy Bernov from Nyukhcha. Ivan Kazimerov.

The memory of these people, as well as of the entire expedition of Rozmyslov, that “she put this strait on the map”, should be immortalized.

B. Koshechkin, candidate of geographical sciences

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Matochkin Ball. Yandex map.

Allows you to: change the scale; measure distances; switch display modes - scheme, satellite view, hybrid. The Yandex-maps mechanism is used, it contains: districts, street names, house numbers, and other objects of cities and large villages, allows you to perform search by address(square, avenue, street + house number, etc.), for example: "Lenin street 3", "Matochkin Shar hotels", etc.

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Matochkin Shar - online map with a satellite view: streets, houses, districts and other objects.

To change the scale, use the "mouse" scroll wheel, the "+ -" slider on the left, or the "Zoom in" button in the upper left corner of the map; to view a satellite view or a national map - select the corresponding menu item in the upper right corner; to measure the distance - click the ruler at the bottom right and put points on the map.

Arkhangelsk region - Matochkin Shar: interactive map from Yandex. Vector diagram and satellite photo - with streets and houses, roads, address search and routing, measuring distances, the ability to get a link to the selected object on the map - to send to the addressee or place on the site.