the main - Sviyash Alexander
Chukotka. Travel to the Cape of All Winds. Bioresources of the Anadyr Bay and the well-being of the indigenous population of the Chukchi Peninsula

And one more unique tourist offer for active travelers who want to see Chukotka. Travel to the Cape of All Winds, Cape Navarin.

This journey is variable: it can be done by boat or on foot. How it will look like, read below.

Region: Chukotka, Anadyr district

Dates of arrival:

August 27 (arrival in Anadyr) - September 12 (departure from Anadyr)
September 12 (arrival in Anadyr) - September 27 (departure from Anadyr)

Number of participants: up to 10 people (m minimum number of group members is 5 people)

Difficulty level: when traveling by boat - the minimum experience of participating in hikes, when traveling on foot - an obligatory experience of participating in multi-day hikes.



Movement type: motor boat, on foot, by car

The nature of the terrain: mountain and shrub tundra, sea coast

Mileage: when traveling by boat:160 km. by motor boat + 50 km. on foot.
when traveling on foot - 250 km.

The settlements of Chukotka in which we will visit: Anadyr, Ugolny Kopi, Beringovsky and abandoned settlements: Beringovsky-1, Zarechensk, Gabriel Bay weather station.



Description of the trip: Travel to Chukotka, begins in Anadyr - the capital of Chukotka Autonomous Okrug. Anadyr amazes guests with its colors - a fabulous city, multi-colored, small, cozy. Anadyr has everything for the most whimsical traveler: comfortable hotels, numerous restaurants, a cinema, a museum, the world's largest wooden Orthodox church built on permafrost, the world's largest monument to St. Nicholas the Wonderworker, and much more. But of course, not for these benefits of civilization, you will fly by plane for almost 8 hours.

We are going to the north of the Koryak Upland, to the village of Beringovsky. The Koryak Upland is one of the most picturesque travel destinations in Russia. Autumn in these parts is a real fireworks of colors. For people tempted with hiking romance, the walking route will be a real pleasure. Mountain rivers and tundra are picturesque and fantastic scenery, especially when you find yourself on mountain lakes. We will cover the 100-kilometer route to Gabriel Bay, where the abandoned polar weather station is located, in 5 days.

Those who do not like the many kilometers of crossings will go to Gabriel Bay by motor boat. The most picturesque shores, sheer cliffs with numerous bird colonies, the Shore of Wrecked Ships, in the area of ​​the Cape of Military Topographers, will not leave anyone indifferent. This is a unique and delightful sight. After reaching the weather station, the group will spend several days in the cabin waiting for the pedestrian participants, enjoying the amazing views and watching the migrations of whales.

Further, our joint route lies to Cape Navarin, the most stormy place in Russia. We will visit a magnificent lighthouse in its location, built 30 years ago, see and fish in the rivers of salmon going for spawning.

But all this splendor is just a prelude to a truly mesmerizing spectacle. The peninsula, which juts deep into the sea, ends with Mount Heyden. The five-hundred-meter mountain sloping from the mainland drops to the sea with vertical cliffs. Lying on a cliff ledge, you can watch the flights of birds for hours and watch the deafening sea surf. "Between heaven and earth" - this is the most accurate characteristic that a person experiences in these places. For a few hours at Cape Navarin, it is worth going and walking hundreds of kilometers. A person completely far from ornithology and bird watching, in this place will be able to realize all the beauty of their free hovering, because birds are everywhere here: from above, from the side, from below, it seems worth reaching out and you will get them.

No less spectacular is the ocean covered with thick clouds, in which the tops of distant capes stick out like islands. This journey can be safely called a journey to the land of beauty.


Unique features:
- see the largest wooden Orthodox church built on permafrost (in the city of Anadyr)
- take a photo near the world's largest monument to Nicholas the Wonderworker (Anadyr)
- visit the most stormy region of Russia, Cape Navari (Cape of All Winds)
- to catch grayling and char for spinning
- visit the southernmost polar weather station "Gabriel Bay" (abandoned)
- see one of the largest bird colonies in Chukotka (up to 1 million birds) in the area of ​​Cape Navarin
- take a trip on sea motor boats along the coast of Chukotka, see the Coast of Wrecked ships (for those who will go the route on motor boats)
- watch bears, black-capped marmots, whales
- take a photo near the only locomobile in Chukotka



Cost of participation: 120 thousand rubles for the participants of the walking route and 160 thousand rubles for those traveling by boat. The tour price includes the purchase of tickets on the Anadyr-Beringovsky-Anadyr route, expeditionary meals, accommodation in Anadyr, Beringovsky settlement, tourist equipment: a tent, emergency communications, campfire and other equipment, rent of sea and road transport.
The price does not include payment for tickets to Anadyr, meals in Anadyr and Beringovsky.

The terms of participation: Application for participation must be sent to e-mail: [email protected]
After submitting the application, you must make an advance payment of 50% of the participation in the trip. The prepayment must be made by April 1, 2016. This is a prerequisite, because during this period it is necessary to redeem tickets for local flights. You pay the rest of the cost upon arrival in Anadyr.




Question: what to do if I have decided on a desire to go on a trip after April 1, 2016?
Answer: you have the opportunity to get on a trip, but the cost of its participation increases by 20%.

Question: if I made an advance payment, but in the future I have to refuse to participate in the trip?
Answer: The prepayment amount will be refunded to you, minus 10% of the tour cost, which is an organizational fee.

Question: can the trip be canceled?
Answer: maybe if the number of participants is less than 5 people. You will be informed about the cancellation of the tour at least 30 days in advance. In this case, the prepayment is fully refunded.

Question: How to get to Anadyr?
Answer: You can get to Anadyr by direct flight from Moscow - UTair airline, as well as flights from Khabarovsk, Yakutsk and Magadan - Yakutia airline. The last three directions are subsidized and a ticket from Khabarovsk, Yakutsk and Magadan to Anadyr costs 8,000 rubles. Thus, it is sometimes cheaper to fly connecting flights from Moscow via Khabarovsk (Yakutsk or Magadan) to Anadyr.
In addition to these questions, you will have a lot of others, including equipment, weather, food, etc. things. You will receive detailed individual answers to all these questions by e-mail.

If you have long wanted to get away from civilization and forget about the existence of the Internet, then you have come to the right place. In this post, the author will tell you in detail about traveling around Chukotka, give a couple of tips and suggest some interesting routes.

Time
There is no time in Chukotka. In the sense of it, it's not that there is none at all. It is there, but it is measured here not in hours and minutes, but in days of travel, intervals between meals, perfect deeds, and God knows what else. The more interesting the journey, the more you want to see sights and wildlife, the more you will need "classic mechanical time". A simple and at the same time extremely difficult axiom for a person "from the mainland". For example, in order to get to the regional center, it may take more than a week, and it is not known how long it takes to then get from the regional center to some national village. This year in Providence I waited for the plane for a week, did not wait and left by boat. And the plane flew to Anadyr only on the 11th day. Fighting with time is not possible, one must learn to be able to wait.
Another aspect of time while traveling in Chukotka is its extensibility. After two days (if you are not in localities) you will stop perceiving the days of the week, you simply will not need them, and after a few days you will completely lose track of the calendar numbers. Due to the fact that in summer it is a polar day in Chukotka, and the surrounding area is so different from everything you lived before, your biological clock will say that you have 28, 35 or even 48 hours in a day.
A remark from the life of Chukchi tourists: "What? That was the day before yesterday? And I was thinking a week ago."

Weather.
The main character in Chukotka is the weather. It is she who decides whether you will go, or you will curse the service and idleness at the airport or hotel. Chukchi weather, a very moody girl. It can change several times a day. It is especially capricious in eastern Chukotka (Providensky, Chukotsky, Iultinsky districts) and in the former Beringovsky district. Bad weather in the east of Chukotka for the most part associated with fogs and clouds, in which aircraft do not fly. In this case, traveling by boat is the only way to get there or from there in a timely manner. In Beringovsky, wind is added to the cloudiness. It is there (Cape Navarin) that the windiest place is located not only in Chukotka, but throughout Russia. In continental Chukotka (Bilibino, Markovo), there is almost always flying weather, but it is very cold there in winter (over -50) and very (by local standards) warm in summer (over +20). In Pevek, the weather is much better than in Anadyr, but "yuzhak" (wind blowing at a speed of 30-40 m / s) can make you sit at home for a couple of days. Anadyr is not the frosty and not the windiest place in Chukotka, but when these indicators combine, even in their average indicators, it becomes very disgusting. In winter, the wind is almost always 5-10 m / s and temperature (25-35 degrees). In summer (July-August) the average temperature is 15 degrees, but the wind is still the same 5-10 m / s.
A replica from the life of Chukchi tourists:
- Why aren't we flying?
- The weather at the point of arrival is bad.
- And how much before him?
- 230 km.
- This cannot be. After all, the sun is shining with us, the heat (+27 in the sun), you probably don't finish saying something.

It was difficult for me to explain (and could not) that 200 km. in Chukotka, this is a different world. In Anadyr there can be excellent, almost calm weather, and at the airport (20 km away) there is a blizzard. In winter, I was driving the Ural along the road from Amguema to Egvekinot (90 km). At point "A" the weather is excellent, at point "E" the weather is good, and in the middle of the way we got into a blizzard and came back. The weather factor should always be borne in mind when planning a trip to Chukotka. If time matters for a traveler, then the number of days on your route should be divided by 2. One part is active travel, the second part is "on the road".
In general, modern travelers, tourists and ordinary people visiting Chukotka are very lucky with the weather. 25-30 years ago, Chukotka was much more severe. Blizzards are stronger, winters are snowier, frosts are stronger, summers are colder. There are pluses from global warming.
It is best to travel around Chukotka from July to the first half of September, let's call it the summer season. And from April to the first half of May - the winter season. For lovers of photography, Chukotka should go from the end of August to the first half of September. There is no limit to the madness of colors. It is necessary to understand very clearly that lovers of good weather should go anywhere, but not to Chukotka. And even during the most favorable months for travel, it can be rainy.
Of personal experience: One year in mid-June, after the snow melted, it started raining in Providence. In September it stopped and it started to snow.

Border zone
If you think that you are a citizen of Russia and can move freely around your country, I will disappoint you. In the country you can, in Chukotka not. A special border regime has been introduced on the territory of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug. The word "introduced" should not mislead anyone. It was not introduced yesterday, it has simply not been canceled since the Soviet era. Here, and partly here, I have already spoken out about the special regime of entry into the territory of Chukotka. I will tell you from a practical point of view how to enter.
We, residents of Chukotka, present a passport at the entrance, in which the cherished letters "PZ" (border zone) are on the registration page, which make our stay on the territory legitimate. It is also free, you can come to citizens who are on a business trip upon presentation of a travel certificate. What is most interesting, they check it at the entrance, but not at the exit. All other citizens can come to Chukotka on a tourist voucher or at the invitation of a private person registered with the Border Administration. Tour operators registered in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug have the right to issue travel packages. Today there are 3 tour operator companies in Chukotka, including the one in which I work (of course, the best one).

Transport
You can get to Chukotka only by plane. You can, of course, in the summer on a dry cargo ship from Vladivostok, but this is not regular transportation, but a separate adventure.
You can fly to Chukotka "from outside" at 3 airports:
1) To Anadyr. Four times a week from Moscow. This is the most common destination for arriving to Chukotka. There are practically no problems with air tickets from Moscow. Moreover, if you order them in advance. The problem is the price. Ticket prices from 12 to 50 thousand in economy class. On average, in the summer, tickets cost 25 thousand rubles.
The ChukotAvia local airlines fly from Anadyr to all regions of Chukotka. This is Anadyr's strategic transport advantage over the rest of Chukotka's "air gates".
2) To Pevek. Once a week from Moscow. In this direction, there may already be problems with tickets. The price is 25-50 thousand rubles. From Pevek, there are already fewer options to get to the rest of Chukotka by air. Helicopters fly from here to the national villages of the Chaunsky region, to Cape Schmidt, as well as planes to Anadyr and Bilibino (once every two weeks).
3) In Bilibino. 3 times a week from Magadan. They fly on small airplanes AN-24 and, if I am not mistaken, AN-12. The ticket price is around 25-30 thousand. From Bilibino, you can only get to the villages of the Bilibino region by air, and by plane to Anadyr and Pevek (once every 2 weeks).
ChukotAvia should be discussed separately. It is the only regular air carrier in Chukotka. Flight prices are subsidized from the regional budget, but despite this, the cost of the ticket is fantastic. Five hundred kilometers separating Providence from Anadyr will cost 18,000 rubles one way! For this money, you will be offered to carry your things from the airport to the plane. But the catch here is not even the cost of the ticket, but in its availability. In the summer, and for the frequent and winter seasons, you simply will not get them. They have already been taken apart! The regularity of messages also does not contribute to the development of tourism (people on vacation would be taken out, not before tourism). The frequency of flights to most destinations is once a week. In some directions (Pevek, Bilibino) - once every two weeks.
Now a few words about the alternative. She, the alternative, is not rich. IN summer season the motor ship "Kapitan Sotnikov" runs from Anadyr along the coast. The schedule of his flights appears a month in advance. Therefore, there can be no question of any medium and long-term planning. We add to this the tariffs for transportation, although they are cheaper by 30% than the plane, but there can be no question of any comfort. Seated chairs, one latrine (toilet) and a buffet with constant queues for "Doshirak" and beer. And okay, if a traveler goes by boat to Egvekinot or Beringovsky - 12 sailing hours. But if you go by sea to Provideniya village - 24 hours, or even worse in Lavrentia village (36 hours) - get ready! Yes, and about rolling and seasickness, too, should not be forgotten.
Speaking of non-regular transportation, it is necessary to negotiate travel on which, for obvious reasons, privately, one can name dry-cargo coal miners that serve the villages of Chukotka (Provideniya, Egvekinot, Lawrence) in the summer. Chartering a motor boat and a motorboat is appropriate in continental Chukotka (Anadyr River, Mal. Anyui, Omolon, Kanchalan, Amguema) and on the east coast (Providensky and Chukotka regions). This type of transport belongs to small size and, as a rule, does not carry more than 3-4 passengers. You can also charter a helicopter. Here, a rich charterer is already offered a choice of 2 companies: Chukotavia (200,000 rubles per hour) and Bilibinoavia (170,000 hours). True, the second company, located in Bilibino, has a smaller air coverage radius (it is not economical for Bilibino residents to work in eastern Chukotka). Automobile transport is relevant in Bilibinsky, Chaunsky and Iultinsky districts, where there are dirt roads. But their network is very limited. The most reliable and passable type of transport is all-terrain vehicles. But! Finding a good all-terrain vehicle, and in addition, with a good all-terrain vehicle, is a whole problem. Because most of them are operated by organizations that are very reluctant to release their transport units for non-core purposes.

Money.
Now I will say heresy. Money in Chukotka doesn't matter. Values ​​in the sense that they have, say, in Moscow or Vladivostok. My Moscow tourists were very surprised when they could not find a taxi to get from one village to another.
A remark from the life of Chukchi tourists: "We offered him a double tariff (10 thousand)! And he was too lazy to get up and go in the morning!"
Even if you conclude a contract for the provision of, for example, transport services, you may be refused, or you may arrive (arrive, arrive) on a different day / days. There are a hundred reasons why this was not done, even for good money. No, Chukotka is not the territory of altruists, just, besides money, there must be something else here: personal acquaintance, mutual interest (the driver, for example, is also a fisherman and wants to fish in the place where you are going), patronage from the administration, you are a celebrity and etc. At the same time, in Chukotka, they can take you, accommodate, feed, provide assistance and not take a penny for it at all. Even get offended when you offer money. This attitude towards money, of course, is not the norm, but it has a place to be.
Chukotka is a very expensive region. Maybe the most expensive in Russia. Rosstat, for example, reports that the highest living wage is in Bilibino. The prices in stores are the first culture shock that occurs among people who first come to Chukotka. 9 out of 10 visitors will definitely take pictures of local price tags in stores. 400 bananas, 200 apples, an egg (120 in Anadyr, 220-250 in Bilibino).
A remark from the life of Chukchi tourists: "How do you live here?"
Even if you have money, but it is on a plastic card, there may be problems with their cashing. There are very few ATMs, sometimes one per village. It may run out of money. Communication may be disconnected. And in principle, it may not work. The same problem concerns payment for goods in stores. Therefore, it is best to have money in cash.
In terms of price, tours to Chukotka by world tour operators working in this region are equated to Antarctica. Therefore, if you are considering Chukotka as an object of tourism, be prepared for the deliberately high prices for a tourist product. The cost of the tours is different, depending on the area, complexity, number of days and other factors. Due to the fact that tourism in Chukotka is not yet a branch of the economy, there is no infrastructure and a massive flow of tourists, each tour is exclusive. The cost of the tour can range from 100,000 to 400,000 rubles per person, excluding the cost of tickets to Anadyr.
A tourist "not organized" will spend less money, but will face transport and logistics problems. Solving these problems primarily takes time, which is so "expensive" for people from the mainland, whose annual leave is at best 30 calendar days.

Services
There is no service in Chukotka. You need to be ready for this right away. Those rare manifestations of comfort and quality of everyday services that can be offered to you are best perceived as a gift, as "manna from heaven", and not as a norm. And this at prices like in good hotels or restaurants in Moscow.
Cafes and restaurants.
In the best case, you will have a choice of where to go to the "first" cafe, or to the "second". Often there is only one catering establishment in regional centers. And the menu is very limited. Although, if we talk about quality, then in most cafes the food is delicious. The price for lunch is on average 500-600 rubles. If you are staying in a city or village for several days, then you can make yourself an individual order of dishes for the next day. Most often, visitors want to taste the dishes of the national cuisine. Not a single institution prepares them. At best, the menu includes venison or local fish, which, however, will be prepared according to the classic culinary recipe. Chukchi or Eskimo cuisine is very specific and you can taste dishes only in national villages, visiting local residents... There are no catering points in national villages at all.
Hotels.
The situation is better here than with food. There are hotels in every district center. The best hotel complex in Egvekinot village is cottage houses. There are apartment-type hotels, there are ordinary ones. Price: 3000-4000 rubles per person per day. In summer, during professional work, there may be no hot water in hotels. There are no hotels in the villages. Accommodation in rented apartments of vacationers or together with the owners.
Communication and the Internet.
Mobile communication is available in almost all settlements of Chukotka: Megafon, Beeline, MTS. The most popular operator "Megafon" is available in all regional centers. In national villages, sometimes the only mobile operator is Beeline. The call quality is very mediocre, but you can talk. The Internet is also available in almost all settlements, with one "but". It is in schools. Some regional centers have internet lounges or clubs. But the best way to go online is via a mobile USB modem. Internet speed is extremely slow. Communication may be interrupted. Therefore, conducting Live Journal in Chukotka is a very troublesome, nervous and even ignoble occupation (except for Anadyr).
Cultural institutions
Local history museums are in all regional centers of Chukotka. They employ real professionals and experts in the history and culture of Chukotka. A visit to the museums is a must. It is with them that you can and should begin your acquaintance with this or that region of Chukotka. In addition to museums, you can visit the House of Culture or the Club, where, having agreed with the head of the institution, you can watch a rehearsal of folklore groups or folk amateur circles. Actually, this is where the list of "cultural" establishments ends.
Other.
Other services include baths, which are everywhere (200-250 rubles per session), visiting the pool requires a medical certificate (Provideniya, Bilibino), gyms and sports grounds, open and closed ice rinks (Egvekinot, Provideniya, Pevek, Bilibino, Coal Mines). There are cinemas in Pevek, Egvekinot and Provideniya. In the last two villages, these are mini-halls (projection cinemas). The repertoire is, of course, 2-3 months old. Ticket price (250-300 rubles). They are poorly visited, because the "new items" have long been revised on discs or, even more cynically, they have already been shown on local television. In Provideniya and Egvekinot during winter (from late December to early May) you can go downhill skiing. The steepest and most difficult slope in Providence.

Anadyr.
Everything that was described above has almost nothing to do with Anadyr. Anadyr is Chukotka Moscow, everything is here, and this is all the most-the-most. Anadyr is not like the rest of Chukotka. There is a choice in Anadyr. There are 5 hotels in the city, of which one is 3 *. Lots of restaurants and cafes. Most of them work in the evenings as nightclubs and taverns. Anadyr has the most "democratic prices" for all goods and products in Chukotka. And as a result, there is the largest assortment here. There are ATMs and you can pay with plastic cards in some stores. There are several monuments (including the world's largest monument to Nicholas the Wonderworker) and the masterpiece of wooden architecture, the Holy Trinity Cathedral. In a modern, by all standards, cinema "Polyarny" only novelties are shown, including Russian premieres (ticket price 200-350 rubles). Indoor ice skating rink, proudly called "Ice Palace" (250 rubles). The fastest taxi order in terms of time (100 rubles per person). Those wishing to buy souvenirs can recommend the Art Gallery and the Souvenirs shop, which offers the widest range of souvenirs in Chukotka. There are snowmobile and bicycle rentals. And finally, here is the "fastest" Internet (in comparison with the rest of Chukotka). The only disadvantage of Anadyr, for a traveler, is its location. It is located on the opposite side of the estuary from the airport. In summer, you can get from the Airport to the city by car and ferry (minimum price 500 rubles) in winter along the winter road by car (1000 rubles). The worst of all is in the off-season (from October to the end of December and from mid-May to the end of June), when you can get over either by helicopter or on an air cushion (3500 rubles).

Souvenirs.
Everyone who comes to Chukotka, like any traveling person, wants to take away some souvenir from here as a keepsake. It is desirable thematic, in some way connected with Chukotka. I want to upset right away - the main Chukchi souvenirs - bone products, are very expensive. Expensive in any sense of the word and welfare. Small bone craft - 5-7 thousand. Walrus tusk with a pattern or engraving from 25-30 thousand to ... That is, if they are considered as works of art (and most of them can be safely attributed to such) it is not very expensive, but as a souvenir ... A hit of the last time , a walrus penis can be considered a kind of brand of Chukchi souvenir products. He, attention (!) - bone (60-100 cm). The minimum price for such a souvenir (8-10 thousand). You can only take out artistically processed bone products (by presenting a sales receipt from the store). Although, if you wish, you can take out in single copies and raw. Magnets, mugs, T-shirts and other traditional souvenirs in a large assortment can be purchased only in Anadyr. In areas with this tight.
To the original souvenirs that are sold in Chukotka, I can name only two - "Eskimo ball" - which was traditionally played by Eskimos and coastal Chukchi, handmade, made in a traditional way: deer skin sewn with reindeer veins.

Where to go?
After the decision has already been made that Chukotka is exactly the region where "I just have to go", the main question arises where to go? Chukotka is France and Great Britain combined. The territory is easy to visualize on the map, but it is difficult to imagine the real size. Therefore, it is necessary, first of all, to formulate the purpose of the trip: what do I want to see? It is impossible to see the whole of Chukotka in two weeks. For no money. And you shouldn't do this, even for the sake of sports interest.
The most interesting thing in Chukotka, why you can and should travel across the country, sit at airports, shake in ATVs, and then freeze from the cold, shiver in the rain and pay a lot of money for all this is not wild animals(which can be seen in the zoo) or the traditional culture of indigenous peoples (whose life can be watched at home in the video on "NG" or "BBC") - this is a feeling of another world. Pure "experience". Everything is different here (than in the Central zone of Russia). First, when you travel around Chukotka, the feeling of "mechanical time" disappears, then a person gets off the "information needle" and gradually an inner silence, calmness and a clear understanding of the homespun truth of life appears. All this is seasoned with the sauce of harsh landscapes, the absence of people, the threat from meeting a bear and a low sky, which, having climbed the hill, you can reach with your hand.
In this respect, the feelings experienced by a Russian tourist who first arrived in Chukotka are much stronger than those of foreigners. For them, Chukotka is "Saybiria", a part of Russia, in which "everything is not like people."

The classic tourist is always focused on the list of attractions offered to him on the tour. "On Monday you will see something built then, and on Tuesday we will go where Makar did not drive calves, and so on." In Chukotka, with very rare exceptions, there are no classic attractions. And place names, in almost 100% of cases, will not say anything. You can describe the actions: fishing, hunting, rafting, swimming in hot springs. This is not the kind of information that a person traveling in Chukotka needs. It is empty. How, for example, can one describe the sunrise in the lakes and swamps of the Anadyr lowland, when thousands of birds begin mating dances and fly in endless flocks to the north? And the hills? How do you describe them? Even if you manage to describe it, no one will understand anything anyway. Traveling around Chukotka is primarily based on sensory perception. Here, it is important to understand that we are not on a classic tour, where everything is clearly planned and recorded, we are on a journey. And on a journey you never know how it will end. If you are not a fisherman, hunter or collector of ethnographic material, I would advise you to light up a fire with the tour program and trust your guide, who will show you the best and most interesting, because for him (even though he has been to these places a hundred times) this is the same journey, as well as for you.

If you have less than a week left and you just want to visit Chukotka, the best travel option is Anadyr and its surroundings. The surrounding area is a radius of 100 km. Here you can see a bear, which visiting tourists really want to see, and which the guides really do not want to see, and an elk, and a wolverine, and bighorn sheep. And also go fishing, visit abandoned settlements, make cycling and hiking routes in the mountains, ride a boat along the rivers and "to the sea". And, in fact, walk around Anadyr itself.

The optimal travel time in Chukotka is 2-3 weeks. Three weeks is even better. More travel options.
The most interesting, from my point of view, for tourism is the Providensky district. These are the famous fjords of Providence Bay, seeing which from the top of the hill in good weather will already be enough to understand that it is not in vain that you have come to the ends of the earth. Here and fishing (char, crab, shrimp, cod, navaga, flounder), and swimming in hot springs, and watching walruses, whales, seals. If you wish, you can also observe the hunting of marine hunters for a whale. Acquaintance with the Eskimo culture, way of life, beliefs. Abandoned military camps of the "Invasion Army". Hiking and cycling tours. In winter, ski tours and downhill skiing. Bird colonies and rookeries for walruses and seals. All this is located very compactly and within daytime availability.

Providence Bay

The visiting card of the Iultinsky region is the intersection of the Arctic Circle and the 180th meridian, where the monument is erected. This is the place where GPS's "go crazy", and according to some tourists there "you can feel the energy of the earth." Fishing is also good here (char, crabs, grayling). You can perfectly raft along the Amguema River to the Arctic Ocean. Visit Iultin - the largest closed village in Chukotka, the largest tin mining and processing plant in the USSR at one time. Visit a reindeer herding brigade, live in a yaranga. In the Iultinsky district, the most high mountains in Chukotka (1854 m.). On the coast of the Arctic Ocean, you can observe the rookeries of walruses and the migration of polar bears.

In the vicinity of Egvekinot village. 10 km. from the Arctic Circle

The capital of the Chaunsky district is the northernmost city of Russia - Pevek. Not far from Pevek, the northernmost cape of Chukotka is Shelagsky. In the Chaunsky district, you can visit the Tumannaya meteorological station, where the film "How I spent this summer" was filmed. In the Chaunsky district, the easiest way is to visit the Chukchi reindeer herders, to live the life of a nomad. The deepest and most mysterious lake of Chukotka, and of the entire North-East of Russia, is also located in this area - Lake Elgygytgyn, which is home to two species of endemic char. You can also see the world's northernmost petroglyphs only here. A special story is the former settlements of Chukotlag, the most terrible place of the "Gulag". Here, during the war years, uranium ore was mined for experiments on the creation of an atomic bomb. This is the area of ​​labor and literary glory of Oleg Kuvaev. The novel "Territory" is about the Chaunsky region and the search for the "big" Chukchi gold.

Lake Elgygytgyn

Bilibino district. For Chukotka it is special: trees grow there. Sharply continental climate. The northernmost nuclear power plant in the world (which you will not be allowed to enter). Here you can perfectly organize rafting down the Small and Big Anyuy, Omolon - these are all tributaries of the Kolyma. The largest and largest elk population in Russia is found here. Here is the only active volcano in Chukotka (the last time it erupted in the 16th century), the lava river from which stretches for 40 km. The Bilibino region has the richest vegetation in Chukotka.

S. Keperveem, Maly Anyui River

Chukotka region is the easternmost region of our country. It is here that Cape Dezhnev and the village of Uelen are located, which all foreigners and extreme tourists who cross the Bering Strait seek to get to. Also in Uelen, the world famous bone carving workshop is located. The best mushers and marine hunters in Chukotka live in this area. Lorinsky hot springs are by far the largest and most equipped in Chukotka. Here, as in the Providensky district, you can taste the national Chukchi-Eskimo cuisine. Visit the reindeer herding brigade and the only Arctic fox farm in Chukotka. And also in the Chukotka region there is an abandoned one of the oldest settlements in Chukotka - the Eskimo village of Naukan (near Cape Dezhnev).

Lorin Hot Springs

Anadyr district is the largest district of Chukotka. Today it includes the former Markovsky, Beringovsky and Anadyr districts itself. The village of Markovo is the oldest Russian settlement in Chukotka. Not far from the village Semyon Dezhnev, founded the Anadyr prison. The largest river in Chukotka, the Anadyr, flows exclusively through the Anadyr region. Great place for rafting. The most picturesque village, in my opinion, is Vaegi, located near the village of Markovo. Almost all animals of Chukotka are found in the region (with the exception of musk oxen and polar bears). Fishing and hunting, reindeer herding brigades, abandoned villages and meteorological stations - all this is the Anadyr region.

In the valley of the Mukarylyan river

If you want to really feel Chukotka try to minimize mechanical movement. Maximum physical travel. Transfer by car or boat, and then a trip on foot, rafting or cycling - in summer, skiing or dog sledding - in winter. This is the only way to truly appreciate the distance and feel the beauty of nature. Traveling by transport, in my opinion, is money down the drain. The eye is "blurred" from the landscapes, there is no unity with nature, as if you are riding a train: it is cozy and comfortable, and nothing remains from the journey. I strongly recommend that you include mountain hiking tours in your travel itineraries, with overnight stays in tents and beams (fishing and hunting lodges).
If, after reading all this, you have not lost the desire to come to Chukotka, my advice is: "It is not important where, it is important with whom." The most valuable thing here is the people. And if you're lucky, you will definitely meet real people who will tell you and show you the real Chukotka. Which you will surely fall in love with, and will strive to come here again.

Chukchi-Eskimo ensemble "Atasikun" at the folklore festival "Ergav" in the village. Lawrence

Extreme northeast of Russia - Chukotka autonomous region with the administrative center in Anadyr. The most distant territory from central Russia. Further, through the Bering Strait is Alaska - America.

The only possible way to get to Chukotka is by plane. The existing sea traffic during the summer navigation season is used only for cargo delivery. There is no passenger traffic due to the large length of sea routes. In principle, there is no railway and automobile communication with the "mainland".


The distance from Moscow to Anadyr is about 6400 km. The flight follows an arc above the polar circle. If you fly during the day, you can see the tundra stretching for many kilometers from the window along the entire road.

At the moment, only one airline makes regular flights from Moscow to Chukotka - Transaero. You can get from Khabarovsk to Anadyr by Vladivostok Air planes. Everything. No more message!


Despite the significant cost of tickets (20 tr.), All planes are almost 100% loaded.

It should be noted that it is not always possible to get to Anadyr even by plane. Due to unstable weather prone to rain, snowfall and strong winds, flights may be delayed or canceled altogether. In spring and autumn, at certain intervals, planes do not fly at all.

The entire territory of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is a border zone with appropriate entry rules. Border guards meet those arriving on the plane. If you do not have a local residence permit, you must have a reason to enter. For example, an invitation from someone or a travel certificate. Passengers who do not take care of documents are sent back by the same plane, without stepping on the land of Chukotka.


Anadyr airport in the village "Ugolnye mines" is located on the opposite side of the Anadyr estuary. In the summer season, you can get from the city to the airport by boat. The fare is 400 rubles. There is also such an exotic type of transport in our country - a hovercraft. If you want to travel in comfort, then by paying the taxi drivers a certain amount of money, you will be taken to your place directly by car. The cars are loaded onto a barge that transports them to the other side. The disadvantage of this method is that on the road you will not be able to admire the seascapes. The sides of the barge are very high, and getting out of the car is problematic. They are placed very tightly to each other.


In winter and in the off-season, the helicopter is the only means of communication. The ticket price is about 1500 rubles. When the ice freezes enough, vehicles are allowed on it. But because of the danger of this route, the ice crossing does not always work.

Anadyr welcomes you with clean, almost perfect roads and sidewalks. The houses are painted in cheerful colors. Lawns are laid out all around, benches, trash cans, etc. are placed.


The ends of the houses are decorated with stylized posters depicting elements of Chukchi life - deer, shaman tambourines, red caviar. All this is called "Chukotka art". The hand of a professional designer is felt. On each poster, along with the Russian name, there is an inscription in the Chukchi language.

What do you think is the name of the bear in Chukchi? "Umk'y". Remember the famous cartoon about Umka? The deer is called - "K, orans" and so on. Apparently all this is intended to preserve the traditional Chukchi culture and language.


The city makes a much more pleasant impression than most Russian cities. All this is the merit of Roman Abramovich. Anadyr before and after Abramovich are two different cities. Gray, dirty, dark before and bright, modern, well-groomed after.


Permafrost is a layer of earth with a thickness of several tens to several hundred meters, the temperature of which for thousands of years did not rise above zero degrees. The foundation of an ordinary building will heat the soil, causing it to melt and spread. Such a building will be unstable, or it will split and fall altogether.

For buildings on stilts, a considerable distance remains between the level of the first floor and the ground. It serves to remove heat from the building. Thus, the soil is frozen all the time. Piles in such soil feel even better than in ordinary soil.

All communications are also carried out on the surface.



The central square of Anadyr - Lenin Square is located on the elevated bank of the Anadyr estuary. The Chukotka Heritage Museum Center is located on the square. The building itself has a very unusual architecture. Everything inside is made according to the latest technology. On three floors there is an exposition telling about the stages of the development of Chukotka and about the life of its indigenous inhabitants. There is a multimedia room on the ground floor. There is a concert hall in the same building.


There is a cathedral next to the square Life-giving Trinity... The cathedral is the largest wooden church in Russia built on permafrost and the only cathedral in Chukotka. Like all buildings in Anadyr, the temple stands on stilts. The soil underneath is cooled by refrigeration units in the summer.


Not far from the cargo port there is a memorial "The First Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka", opened in 1981.

The outskirts of Anadyr are huge tundra expanses with hills rising among them. The closest to the city are the hill of St. Michael with an abandoned tropospheric communication station located on it, about 5-7 kilometers away, as well as the grief of St. Dionysius, 50 kilometers away. From almost anywhere in the city, a magnificent view of these hills or of the mountains located on the other side of the estuary opens. The city itself is also located on a hill stretching from its top to the waters of the Anadyr estuary.


The road transport system in Chukotka is underdeveloped. And if there is no road network on the side of the village of Ugolny mines, then on the side of the city there are practically no roads. Those. in the city itself, of course, everything is in order, but immediately after it everything ends. Several primers of rather mediocre quality stretch into the tundra. But they also end pretty soon. It is impossible to get to any settlements by them.



The flora of the Anadyr environs is characterized by the complete absence of any kind of trees. Unless, of course, you do not count their dwarf brothers. For example, there is a dwarf pine, which literally spreads along the ground, and is even lower than many shrubs in height.


Towards the end of summer, the berry ripening season begins in the tundra. Lingonberries, blueberries, blueberries, shiksha (dropsy) - this is an incomplete list of what the tundra is rich in. In addition to berries, there are a lot of various mushrooms in the tundra. As we, the inhabitants of the middle zone, follow them into the forest, so the local population goes to pick mushrooms and berries in the tundra.


What is the tundra like? Usually this is a wetland, overgrown with low bushes and grass. It is impossible to move along it in a car, even with an all-terrain vehicle.


The ideal means of transportation are various vehicles with reduced pressure wheels. Due to the low ground pressure, they do not sink into swamps. In addition, they move along the tundra on tracked all-terrain vehicles, leaving deep and long-lasting traces.


The tundra in the vicinity of Anadyr is a monument to human mismanagement. Many rusty barrels, remnants of some mechanisms and machines that have remained here forever. The pinnacle of this is the abandoned tropospheric communication station on the hill of St. Michael. The most grandiose structure!


A few words must be said separately about the tropospheric communication system. The system was created in the late 60s in order to provide communication in the regions of the far north.


The huge distance, permafrost and harsh climate made it impossible to lay cables. Conventional VHF communication operates at a distance of no more than 80 km. Satellite communications were still poorly developed at that time.


Therefore, a system of tropospheric over-the-horizon communication "Horizon" was developed. Range 250-425 km. The principle of operation of this system is the property of reflection of radio waves from upper layers atmosphere. The problem was that the reflected signal came in very weak, in addition, it could be significantly displaced.


To solve the above problems and ensure a long communication range, it was necessary to build giant antennas with a mirror size of 20x20 meters, or 30x30 meters. Two antennas for each direction.


And so, at the top of the hill of St. Michael there are six huge antennas (the station worked in 3 directions) and several more smaller ones related to some other communication system. This is the former Yukon station - part of the North tropospheric radio relay line (TRRL). The station was equipped with diesel generator sets and could function autonomously for a long time.

The network of such stations was located along the line of the Arctic Circle throughout the north of the USSR.

With the development of satellite communication systems, TRRL began to significantly inferior to them. The system was ultimately closed down in the late 1990s. Yukon Station ceased to exist in 2003.

Now only the wind walks among antennas, technical cases, cables, which are beginning to rust. One of the antennas has already fallen, others are still standing. A few more years will pass and the rest will not withstand the pressure of the elements, burying under itself the memory of one of the most ambitious projects of the USSR.

Talking about Chukotka, one cannot fail to mention one of its main riches. Along with gold, gas, oil, this is red caviar. Chum salmon spawning begins in August and ends in early September. This is the most fertile time for fishing.


They fish, of course, not with rods, but with nets set along the bank of the estuary. On an industrial scale, the Anadyr fish factory is engaged in procurement. All others need to purchase licenses for fishing.


Fishing is prohibited on Monday and Tuesday. An exception was made for the indigenous people - the Chukchi. They will gladly sell you both raw and cooked caviar. It is not worth taking ready-made caviar from them. It is completely unknown in what conditions it was cooked. But you can take raw caviar in oysters.


The yastyk is a thin but strong film that forms a bag-shell in which salmon and sturgeon caviar is located. Raw caviar costs 300-350 rubles per kilogram. Feel the difference! In our stores, a kilogram of red caviar costs about 1,700 rubles. True, there will be slightly less ready-made caviar from a kilogram of raw, but nevertheless ...


Making caviar is pretty simple. The first thing to do is to cook brine. Tuzluk is a solution of table salt, usually close to saturation. The water is brought to a boil and table salt is gradually added to it. You need to add it until it dissolves. Another way to check if brine is ready is to use raw potatoes. If it does not sink in the solution, then the brine is ready.

Before salting, the caviar must be separated from the roe. This process is called rumbling. If there is not enough caviar, then you can get by with an ordinary spoon, but this is extremely inconvenient and not very high quality. It is best to use a badminton racket. The ovaries open and rub against the rocket, while the eggs are separated and fall down.

After the rumble is finished, the eggs need to be washed. This is done on gauze. That's it, now the caviar is ready for salting. We put it in brine for a period of 5 to 10 minutes. After drying for a short time, the caviar can be eaten or laid out in jars.

The caught fish during the spawning period are often simply thrown away by the Chukchi, so if you need fish, they will gladly give it to you for free. They themselves, of course, also prepare fish for themselves. The fish is cut and hung for drying in small sheds, which literally cover the entire coast near the village of Tavaivaam.



There is an opinion that the indigenous peoples of the north are now actively drinking and degrading. I don’t know ... Maybe it’s of course so, but some kind of global degradation process is imperceptible. No, there are of course those among the Chukchi who actively abuse. At the same time, they certainly look and live accordingly. Most, however, seem to me to integrate nicely into modern life Anadyr's lifestyle does not differ at all from the Russian population.


One of the traditional folk crafts in Chukotka is bone carving. Decorations made from walrus tusks are truly magnificent! Moreover, many are real works of art with a corresponding cost, which can go up to 100 thousand rubles for individual copies! Expensive. Yes, it's expensive, like all life in Chukotka. On average, food prices are at least twice as expensive as in Moscow. The cost of gasoline is 1.5 times higher!

This is due to the fact that the region exists exclusively at the expense of products and goods brought from big land... Once a year in summer, during the northern sea delivery, the bulk of products and goods are delivered. Perishable food such as vegetables and fruits are only delivered by plane. Their prices shock the unprepared person.


Today we will continue our virtual tour of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug and turn our attention to the other side of the Anadyr Bay, which is also fraught with many attractions. However, sights in the classical sense of the word are rare in Chukotka, but amazing places shrouded in a halo of mysticism, magic and beauty - as many as you like.

Buzzing. Into obese Soviet times on weekends and holidays, they washed the asphalt with a fire truck ...



Near the village "Coal mines" the largest airport in the region is located - "Carbonic"... And from the main entrance of Chukotka, restored in the time of Abramovich, only 20 minutes. by car to the former secret base armed forces the USSR "Anadyr-1"... In the 60s of the last century, at the peak of the confrontation between Moscow and Washington, the Soviet government decided to create a number of classified military units with nuclear weapons - the so-called. "northern nuclear shield"... And the appearance in Chukotka of an object with intercontinental ballistic missiles was not long in coming. The combat duty of the nuclear missile containment system lasted until the start of "restructuring"... During this time, in a picturesque valley between low hills, two military towns grew up: the main one - No. 5 (Gudym) and the auxiliary one - No. 2.


Buzzing today is a sad and at the same time amazing sight.

The scope of the construction of buildings, roads, landfills, a tankodrome and other buildings, in terms of the speed of construction for the regions "permafrost" was unprecedented. But the most amazing structure erected on the outskirts of Gudym, of course "Portal"- an underground command post for the control of nuclear missile launches, located in the depths of one of the hills. The impressive dungeon, the upper level of which can still be penetrated today, strikes the imagination with the scale of the device, the degrees of protection and the presence of a well-preserved narrow-gauge railway.


Barracks of town # 2

According to these and many other parameters, Good is considered "first among equals" from the abandoned military bases on the territory the former USSR... Today there is not a soul there, and only rare scrap metal collectors and adventurers disturb the peace of the ghost town. IN better times several thousand people lived here, mainly members of the families of military personnel who were supplied with "big land" by category "BUT", such as the apparatus of the Central Committee of the CPSU. Collateral for the highest level affected all spheres of life, even the teachers of the only school in Gudym came from Moscow. However, all this idyll suddenly sank into oblivion with the coming to power of Gorbachev. First, nuclear weapons were removed from there, then the conditions of supply changed, and finally, with the destruction of the Union, very gloomy times came for the inhabitants of Gudym. The disbandment of the object dragged on until 2002 and wait a while "dead city" continues to keep his secrets all alone. Today Gudym is the perfect setting for a disaster film. The post-apocalyptic landscape with picturesque ruins of military facilities is one of the best places for industrial tourism from the category " done and forgotten in the USSR ".


Boxes and barrels


Washbasins


Be s shift watch Mr. John

Several of the following attractions of the Anadyr region add up to "Golden Ring", especially since the entire route is directly related to the precious metal. The Golden Ridge originates from the Gudymsky hills with highest point- the city of John (1014 m.), stretching for 70 km. deep into the Anadyr lowland. And the first unusual place, apart from the natural splendor of the mountain range, is the village of Zolotogorye, located on the southern spurs of the ridge of the same name. At the very beginning of the last century, resourceful Yankees began to mine gold here industrially, and after the establishment of Soviet power in Chukotka, they were replaced by domestic gold miners. Today the mines, as well as the scattering of former mining settlements, are abandoned. In times "developed socialism", Zolotogorye, being the center of gold mining of the Anadyr region, was the same closed place as Gudym. Now, in these foothills, in addition to curious bears, you can also meet a person: preserved artifacts of the Soviet past and contrasting views of the Golden Ridge against the background of the surrounding tundra, every summer more and more tourists are attracted here.


Golden Mountains and John

The next point after the Zolotogorye Chukotka "Golden Ring", Pass lakes are graceful reservoirs, so named because of their location on both sides of the mountain pass. A narrow gorge and wonderful views made this inaccessible place a real gem of the Anadyr region.

The last point of the route, the very heart "Golden Ridge"- Zolotaya (925 m) has an excellent observation deck. In good weather, from its top you can see Anadyr and its surroundings, Mikhail's hill and Mount Dionysius. And although the Chukchi landscapes are a topic for a separate, big conversation, it is safe to say that any trip to this lost world is unthinkable without a panegyric to the local beauties.


The road to the village. Minersky

Returning to Anadyr, before turning to Coal Mines, you can turn into another abandoned village located on the shores of Melkaya Bay near the Vtoraya Gorka hill. This is Shakhtyorsky - an urban-type settlement, which almost completely repeated the sad fate of Gudym. The reforms of the 90s brought to naught all production, including the oldest fish canning plant in Chukotka, built in 1929. Abandoned residents tried to move as quickly as possible if not to "mainland", then at least in Anadyr and in 1998 the administration of the district began to implement the decision on the complete liquidation of Shakhtyorskoye.


pos. Minersky

In addition to inspiring landscapes in the style of urban cyberpunk, Shakhtyorsky has a unique monument of the Soviet era, which miraculously survived to this day. This is a small, dilapidated obelisk the first Chukchi pilot Timofey Elkov... In addition to him, a lot of artifacts have been preserved here. Soviet period: household utensils, books, children's toys, household appliances, cars and even airplanes. Near the village is the Observatsii cape, from where wonderful views of Anadyr and the entrance to the Kanchalan bay open.


According to the latest information, the monument will be updated and moved to the village. Coal Mines


Bering Sea resorts

This side of the Anadyr estuary, where the diversity of amazing and harsh Nature is intertwined with the aesthetics of decadence, surpasses the metropolitan area in the abundance of remarkable places. And although the crisis phenomena in our life are a constant value, Chukotka fully makes us feel the variability of our world. Here, the inexorable time is felt deeper, which sooner or later will bury any hopes of the conformist for "enduring values"... At one time, this was subtly noticed by the famous relative of Abramovich - Tsar Solomon, expressing the whole essence in the famous phrase-prophecy: "This too shall pass"...


Wind turbines in Chukotka

The coat of arms of the city of Anadyr "A brown bear holding a fish in its paws against a background of white and blue stripes" was approved in 1999.

Anadyr is the capital of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug, located on the right bank of the Kazachka River at the entrance to the Anadyr estuary, which connects the Anadyr River with the Anadyr Bay of the Bering Sea. His geographical coordinates 64 degrees 44 minutes north 177 degrees 31 minutes 18 seconds east. From Anadyr, the now independent villages Ugolny Kopi, Shakhtyorsky, settlements on the Russian Koshka and Cape Geka, in different years, periodically included in the city limits, grew up. The city owes its name to the river of the same name, at the mouth of which it stands. The toponym Anadyr goes back to the Yukaghir stem “anu-an” - “river”. Semyon Dezhnev's Cossacks, who met the Yukaghirs in 1949, who settled in the basin of this river, named it "Onandyr", later interpreted as Anadyr.
The distance from Anadyr to Moscow is 6400 km. The population of the city (at the end of 2002) is 11288 people.

History
The history of the capital of the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug is inextricably linked with the history of our entire northern region.
When Russian industrialists-explorers penetrated into the Far northeast of Asia, they discovered that the peoples of Chukotka are divided according to their economic and everyday life into two groups: sedentary sea hunters (Eskimos, sedentary / coastal / Chukchi, Kereks) and nomadic reindeer herders (Chukchi, Yukaghirs , Koryaks, Evens). The material and spiritual culture of the indigenous peoples was fully adapted to the harsh conditions of the Arctic.
The impetus for the development of the Russian territory of Chukotka was the foundation by Semyon Dezhnev and Mikhail Stadukhin of the Nizhnekolymsky prison in 1644. It is this prison that will become the basis for the preparation of many subsequent expeditions, when the explorers pursued the main goal of "finding new unseasoned land" and "bringing them under the high sovereign's hand", establishing trade, searching for a "fish tooth" and at the same time resolving issues geographical discoveries... So, in 1648-1649, Semyon Dezhnev with his "companions" on ships - kochas, adapted to sail in the northern seas for the first time passed through the strait between Asia and America. After the remnants of the expedition scattered by a storm, Dezhnev was thrown onto the southern coast of Chukotka, by January 1649 he reached the mouth of the Anadyr River on foot. After wintering here, in the summer with the remaining 12 members of the team, he went up the river and 18 km from the modern village of Markovo laid a winter hut (since 1652 Anadyr prison). Repeated attempts to repeat Dezhnev's voyage from the Kolyma to Anadyr around the Chukotka Peninsula were unsuccessful. Only the land road to Kamchatka through the Anadyr ridge and the fort was used, opened in 1650 as a result of the pedestrian crossing of M. Stadukhin and S. Motors from the mouth of the river. Big Anyui to the Anadyr river.
Over the 12 years of his stay on the Anadyr River, SI Dezhnev imposed yasak (a small tribute to furs paid by Siberian foreigners "as a gift to the White Tsar") the inhabitants of the middle reaches of the river. Anadyr. The Anadyr prison became a strong point in the development of Chukotka and Kamchatka. It was from here that the expeditions departed. In 1697-1699. Atlasov and Morozko to Kamchatka. In 1660 K. Ivanov to the Bay of the Cross and the Bay of Providence. In 1685 L. Morozko and I. Golygin to the "Koryak land" to Cape Olyutorsky.
The first Russian expeditions to Chukotka were organized by merchants who lured Cossacks with them, and did not have the character of a purposeful public policy... Merchants were primarily interested in furs and walrus tusk. The first facts of the exchange trade of Russian merchants with the Chukchi and Eskimos date back to the middle of the 17th century. Attempts Of the Russian state impose yasak indigenous population Chukotka often met with resistance. Until 1778, the Chukchi were considered a "not peaceful" people, until the head of the Anadyr prison, Major I. Shmalev, signed a peace treaty with them.
At the end of the 17th - 18th centuries, there was a period of intertribal wars in Chukotka. Military clashes between the Chukchi and the Koryaks were especially frequent. Capturing reindeer herds, along with nomadic reindeer herding, has become one of the branches of the economy of the indigenous peoples that have entered the stage of "military democracy" in their social development. More numerous Chukchi left the zones of Russian influence and pressed Koryaks, Kereks, Yukagirs, who were seeking protection from the Russians.
The discovery of Kamchatka, rich in sables, changed the attitude of Russian rulers to the development of the North-East of Eurasia. In 1713, Peter 1 issued a decree on finding a sea route from the Okhotsk coast to Kamchatka, and in 1725 - on outfitting the First Kamchatka Expedition (1725 - 1730), led by Vitus Bering, in search of the strait between Asia and America and the routes to the latter. In 1728, Bering, with his assistant Alexei Chirikorv and his crew on the ship "Saint Gabriel", sailed from Kamchatka to the strait, which was later named after him. Simultaneously, in 1729, in order to "pacify" the Chukchi wars and finally expose the indigenous population, a military expedition was undertaken under the command of Major A. Shestakov, but his detachment was defeated by the Chukchi. In 1731, Major D. Pavlutsky, a subordinate of Shestakov, undertook a new campaign. The Cossacks, accompanied by the Koryaks and Yukagirs, reached the Arctic Ocean through the Anadyr and Belaya rivers and returned back, defeating the Chukchi detachment. In 1732, Dmitry Pavlutsky sent the boat “St. Gabriel "under the leadership of I. Fedorov and M. Gvozdev. They make the first map of the Bering Strait, mark the Diomede Islands on it. Subsequently, Pavlutsky several times undertook military campaigns with the aim of finally bringing the Chukchi into Russian citizenship, but they were of little use. In 1747, on the Orlovka River (100 km south of the Anadyr prison), his detachment was defeated, and the Chukchi major was overtaken and killed at the hill now called Mayorskaya (in the vicinity of Markovo).
In the second half of the 18th century, the Anadyr prison, after the opening of the sea route to Kamchatka, finally lost its significance and in 1771 it was destroyed, the management passed to Gizhiga. However, the Russian government is taking a number of scientific expeditions, the purpose of which was to consolidate and develop new territories, including Chukotka. Purposeful study of this region began with the Second Kamchatka Expedition (1735 - 1745), in which G. Miller, I. Gmelin, S. Krasheninnikov, G. Steller and other outstanding scientists took part. They collected the first information about the peoples of the Far North, the geographical environment and fauna of the region.
In 1736, 1739-1742 Dmitry Laptev undertook his voyages and campaigns. In 1763-1764, the first Chukchi scientist Nikolai Daurkin traveled around Chukotka making maps. In 1762, and then in 1765, Nikita Shalaurov set sail around the Chukotka Peninsula by a northeastern passage from the mouth of the Lena to Cape Shelagsky.
The strengthening of Russian influence in Chukotka was largely facilitated by the flexible policy of the Russian government in the second half of the 18th century and the development of trade relations with indigenous peoples. So, in 1779, Empress Catherine II - October 11, 1779 ordered "not to take any yasak from the Chukchi for 10 years, provided that they live peacefully with the Koryaks." In 1788, the first fair was held on the river. Big Anyui. Later, the official fair was transferred to the Maly Anyui River near the former Anyui stockade (the modern village of Ostrovnoye). Hundreds of reindeer herders came here, bringing skins of polar fox, fox, sable, otter, walrus tusks, deer meat, and seal belts for exchange. Russian traders carried tobacco, tea, iron axes and knives, copper pots and other goods. The sale of alcoholic beverages at fairs was prohibited.
Since the end of XVIII -beginning of XIX For centuries, the Russian population began to settle in Chukotka in detail, the villages of Markovo, Bannoe, Oselkino, and others appeared. Attempts to Christianize the local population were actively attempted, but only among the Evens this religion became widespread. In 1839, a chapel was built in the village. Fortress, then the church in Markovo.
The entire development of the northern Russian territories from 1799 to 1867 is supervised by a specially created Russian-American company, which was organized by G. Shelikhov, and headed by A.A. Baranov.
In 1822, a special decree "On the management of foreigners" was issued, where the indigenous peoples of Chukotka were named among other peoples.
After Alexander II sold Alaska in 1867 for $ 7 million (4.7 cents per hectare), American traders and whalers began active activities in Chukotka. To strengthen Russia's influence in the northeast in 1868-1869, a special Chukotka expedition was organized under the leadership of Baron Maydel. He managed to persuade some of the wealthy Chukchi to swear allegiance to the Russian crown.
Since 1872 the Russian government organized the cruising of warships along the coast of Chukotka.
In 1883, a self-taught Chuvan Afanasy Dyachkov in the village. Markovo opens the first parish school in Chukotka.
On July 9, 1888, the Russian government decided to separate the Anadyr district as part of the Gizhiginsky district, the first head of which was L.F. Grinevetsky. In 1889, he founded the Novo-Mariinsk post (now the city of Anadyr) on the banks of the Anadyr estuary. In 1897, the first population census was carried out in Chukotka under the leadership of the head of the district, who later became the Amur governor N.L. Gondatti.

Formation of the Anadyr district and the establishment of the post of Novo-Mariinsk.
On June 9 (old style), 1889, the clipper "Robber" entered the Anadyr estuary. The officers of the newly created Anadyr Okrug, Mr. L.F., arrived at the clipper. Grinevetsky - the head of the district, his assistant Mr. Dmitriev, 12 Cossacks, and were also delivered Construction Materials, food and other goods. The clipper was commanded by captain of the first rank N.P. Wolfe. On July 21, 1889, the construction of the first wooden house on the Alexander Spit. On the second day, July 22 (August 3, new style), 1889, the house was illuminated, over which the state flag Russia and produced a salute from the onboard guns of the "Robber" clipper. The lighting of the house fell on the day of the namesake of Tsarina Maria Feodorovna, which determined the name of the settlement: Mariinsk, but, taking into account the existing settlements in Russia with this name, they began to call it Novo-Mariinsk. The post was founded not far from the ancient Chukchi village of Vien (from Chukot. "Entrance"), as a border point, a district center, but it grew slowly. Mainly state and private trade warehouses were built here. The most notable events of the early 20th century were the discovery of placer gold in the area of ​​the Golden Ridge and the construction of a radio station in Novo-Mariinsk in 1912-1914, which was then one of the four most powerful stations in Russia. Its long-wave spark spark transmitters made it possible to maintain communication with Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, Okhotsk, Nome (Alaska).
Before October revolution 1917 Chukotka was part of the Kamchatka region of the Amur Territory. At the end of February 1918, Soviet power was proclaimed in the Kamchatka region (albeit not for long), and in Chukotka, the 1st Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka, which operated from December 16, 1919 to January 31, 1920, became the first organ of the new government. Mandrikov and August Berzin organized a revolutionary international group, which included Ukrainians, Belarusians, Russians, Ingush, Latvians, Chuvans and representatives of other nationalities - only 13 people. This group overthrew the power of the Kolchak administration in Anadyr and later established Soviet power in Markovo and Ust-Belaya.
The Revolutionary Committee organized the purchase of coal for free distribution to the poor population, approved the prices and norms for the distribution of goods, established control over the work of state food warehouses, increased salaries for teachers, nationalized part of the goods of Russian and foreign merchants in order to prevent hunger in Markovo and Ust-Belaya, introduced universal labor duty. However, on January 31, 1920, the merchants organized a counter-revolutionary coup, later shooting 11 members of the First Revolutionary Committee. But in the summer of the same year, the power of the counter-revolutionaries was eliminated and a second revolutionary committee was organized, headed by the former Baltic sailor Vasily Mikhailovich Chekmarev. Then the Kolchakites again took power in Chukotka into their own hands. Finally, Soviet power in the region was established only in 1923, when the last detachments of Kolchakites were expelled.
The formation of the First Anadyr District Revolutionary Committee on December 16, 1919, opened a new page in the history of the city. By this time, about 300 people lived in it. Then the Soviet power did not last long, on January 31, 1920, there was a coup organized by merchants, and in early February the revolutionary committee members were shot. But already on August 1, 1920, a new organ of the people's revolutionary power - the Anadyr district executive committee - began to reorganize the life of the village.
From November 1920 to March 1921, the Kamchatka region was part of the Far Eastern Republic, where a struggle was going on for the establishment of Soviet power. Since November 1922, the Far Eastern Republic was transformed into the Far Eastern Region of the RSFSR. Revolutionary committees operated in Chukotka. On January 4, 1926, the Far Eastern Territory was formed with the transition from the provincial and district division to the district district system. The counties were reorganized into districts: Anadyr and Chukotsky. They became part of the Kamchatka District.
On December 10, 1930, the Presidium of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee of the RSFSR adopted a resolution "On the Organization of National Associations in the Areas of Settlement of Small Nations of the North". According to this decree, the Chukotka National District was also formed with a temporary district center in the Chukotka cultural base (Lawrence Bay). In fact, already in 1931, Anadyr finally became the capital of the district.
For a long time the post, then the settlement, was known under two names: Novo-Mariinsk and Anadyr. The decision to rename the settlement to Anadyr was repeatedly taken by various administrative bodies, until it was finally approved in 1924 by a decree of the Kamchatka provincial revolutionary committee. The city inherited its name from Anadyrsk (Anadyr prison), founded on the river in the middle of the 17th century by pioneering Cossacks.
The development of Anadyr is associated with the development of the administrative-territorial structure of Chukotka. Since 1927 it has been the center of the Anadyr region. After the formation of the Chukotka National District in 1930, almost immediately, Anadyr becomes the capital of the district. Here in the early 30s. the first appear in Chukotka industrial enterprises- a fish cannery, which also included the Coal Mines located on the left bank of the Anadyr estuary. To train personnel from the local population in 1939, the first secondary specialized educational institution was opened in Anadyr - a pedagogical school, in which many famous teachers, writers, scientists, and public figures of Chukotka began their education.
On October 20, 1932, the Kamchatka District was reorganized into a region, which, when the Far Eastern Territory was divided on October 20, 1938 into Khabarovsk and Primorsky, became part of the Khabarovsk Territory. The Chukotka National District remained part of the Kamchatka Region.
On June 20, 1924, the All-Russian Central Executive Committee created the Committee for Assistance to the Nationalities of the Northern Borders under the leadership of Smidovich. On June 27, 1927, the Kamchatka Joint-Stock Company (AKO) was created for the development of the economy and the delivery of food to the northern regions, and at the beginning of 1930 the Chukotka Regional Integral Union was formed.
By 1928-1936. the formation of the Chukotka aviation belongs, the main airfields were Cape Severny / Schmidta / and Anadyr.
In the summer of 1930, the first reindeer herding collective farm was organized from the united nomadic groups living in the Land of Geka.
In 1931, the first cultural institutions were established in the Okrug: The Okrug Museum in Anadyr and the Uelen bone carving workshop.
In 1932, the first All-Russian conference on the development of languages ​​and writing of the peoples of the North was held, after which the committees of the new alphabet of the peoples of the North were created. On October 8, 1933, the first issue of the district newspaper "Sovetskaya Chukotka" (now "The Far North") was published, later a special supplement was published in the Chukchi language.
A huge role in the development of the economy of the Chukotka Okrug was played by the organization on December 17, 1932 of the Main Directorate of the Northern Sea Route / GUSMP /, which was engaged in the industrial and geological development of Chukotka. Polar stations, ports, airfields, and industrial enterprises were created under his auspices; hydrographic and geological work was carried out. For the development of the Northern Sea Route in 1933-1934. an icebreaking cruise of the motor ship "Chelyuskin" was organized. The expedition was led by O.Yu. Schmidt.
On February 27, 1937, by order of the People's Commissariat for Land Management of the RSFSR, the Chukotka Land Management Expedition was created, which allocated land for the economic activities of individual collective farms and enterprises, and carried out zoning. According to this expedition, the population of the district in 1938 was 18,390 people, of which 12,101 were Chukchi, 1,280 were Eskimos, and 3020 visitors. 3.3 thousand people lived in the district center of the village of Anadyr.
On December 12, 1937, the first elections to the Supreme Soviet of the USSR were held in Chukotka. The first deputy to the Council of Nationalities from Chukotka was the Chukchi Tevlyanto, who at the same time worked as the chairman of the regional executive committee.
On October 1, 1939, the Anadyr Pedagogical School was opened to train specialists from among the residents of Chukotka.
During the Great Patriotic War, Chukotka provided tremendous assistance to the country in the victory over fascism. Conscripts from Chukotka villages took part in battles at the front. Chukotka provided the metal necessary for defense - tin. In August 1941, the Chaun-Chukotka mining plant was created. The coal industry began to develop actively. During the war years, 199.4 thousand tons of coal were mined at the Anadyr deposit and in the Ugolnaya Bay. During the war years, the Anadyr fish processing plant supplied the front with 8 million cans of canned food, while a significant part of the production went to meet the needs of the district, because there was no import of food from the mainland.
In the early 50s. In Chukotka, the collectivization of reindeer husbandry and marine animal hunting was completed, and a company began to transform collective farms into state farms, which lasted until 1975.
On May 28, 1951, by the decision of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR, was assigned to direct subordination Khabarovsk Territory... On December 3, 1953, the Chukotka National District became part of the Magadan Region.
Anadyr began to grow and develop rapidly since the late 50s. A sea point appeared here, which in 1961 became a large seaport through which all the necessary cargoes and construction materials for the first wooden two-story houses on the high right bank of the estuary were delivered. The village is getting cramped on the historical Alexander Spit, he stepped across the Kazachka River to the elevated part of the tundra.
On January 12, 1965, by decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR, the village of Anadyr received the status of a city. It developed food industry, construction industry. In its silhouette, four, five-story houses have become familiar. Every year Anadyr is improving and pleasing the eyes of residents with multi-colored facades of houses. Here are all the administrative and government offices of the district, the district hospital, several secondary special and branches of higher educational institutions... The basis of the city's energy sector is the combined heat and power plant, which has been operating at full capacity since 1987. Communication is developing in the city, the first telephone exchange for 40 numbers was commissioned in 1964. Now the automatic telephone exchange provides communication with all corners of our country and abroad. Since 1972, the Anadyr ground station for ultra-long-range space transmissions of the Orbita system has been providing broadcasting of Central Television programs. The Anadyr television center, now transformed into the state television and radio company Chukotka, was created back in 1967.
According to the 1977 USSR Constitution, the national district became autonomous.
In the 70s and 80s, the development of the leading sectors of the economy in Chukotka continues, changes are taking place in the cultural life of the district. On August 7, 1968, the first professional Chukchi-Eskimo ensemble "Ergyron" ("Dawn" in translation from Chukchi) was created.
On December 9, 1970, the district was awarded the Order of the Red Banner of Labor, and on December 29, 1972, the Order of Friendship of Peoples.
In 1973, the first signs of oil were discovered in the Anadyr region, but field development began only very recently.
In 1992, after Chukotka left the Magadan Region and received the status of an independent subject of the Russian Federation, Anadyr again received the status of a city of district subordination, which it had before 1957.
Anadyr is not only an administrative, but also a cultural and scientific center of the district. There are several scientific institutions, the district library named after Tan Bogoraza, National College of Arts, original national ensembles "Ergyron" and "Chukotka". Recently, the reconstruction of the Polyarny cinema has been completed.
There are many monuments of history and art in the city. Memorial to the First Revkom of Chukotka by sculptor V.E. Queen. Palace of Children's Creativity, created by architect Antonio Miche and engineer M. Galakhov, commissioned in 1974. The money for its construction was collected by the pioneers of the whole country. Buildings of the early 20th century, preserved at the site of the city's foundation - Alexandra Kos, where the old chapel is now reconstructed and the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord operates.

The nature of Anadyr and its surroundings
The climate in the vicinity of Anadyr is greatly influenced by the Anadyr Bay of the Bering Sea. The weather here is very changeable, often monsoon winds blow from the sea. Floods are often observed under the influence of southerly winds, especially in late autumn. Among other features of the climate, it is necessary to name the frequently changing atmospheric pressure. Average annual rainfall is 445 mm. The average annual temperature in Anadyr is 7.4 degrees. C. In 2001, the lowest winter temperature was recorded on December 26 - 39.6 degrees, and the highest summer temperature on July 21, + 24 degrees.
Anadyr and its environs belong to the subzone of the bushless tundra. The nature of the vegetation here is also determined by the proximity of the sea and harsh winds. Near the city, in the tundra, only dwarf trees and rare shrubs grow, and in spring it strikes with bright colors of blossoming flowers of rhododendrons, poppies, Ivan tea, polar lilac, and wild rosemary. In summer and autumn, the tundra pleases the townspeople with an abundance of mushrooms and berries: cloudberries, blueberries, shiksha, lingonberries. Old-timers of Anadyr assure that the most mushroom and berry places are in the area of ​​the two hills of Dionysius and Mikhail, which are located a few kilometers from the city. Several types of shrubs, alder, poplar, willow, have taken root from the cultural plantings on the streets of the city. Enthusiasts grow tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers in greenhouses, and radishes, lettuce in the open field, not far from the city in a place called "dachas".
Many feathered inhabitants flock to the vicinity of the city in spring - gulls (kittiwakes, herring gulls and glaucous gulls), skuas, Arctic terns, several species of waders. Partridges, snow buntings, snowy owls, magpies overwinter here, sparrows have also reached here on ships, to delight the townspeople with their chirping. At the bird market on the island of Alyumka, which is near the city, there are Ipatoks, hatchets, guillemots, and Beringian cormorants. During an excursion around the outskirts of Anadyr, the museum staff will tell you many old legends about Mount Dionysius and the island of Alyumka, whose name from the Chukchi language translates as “a piece of something confused”.
Ermines, weasels, arctic foxes live in the vicinity of the city, brown bears are found, and sometimes white bears come. But most of all, the guests of the city remember the meetings with the evrashki (long-tailed ground squirrels). These amusing animals are almost tame, do not hesitate to beg for bread crumbs from mushroom pickers and berry pickers.
Wonderful fishing off the coast of the Anadyr estuary. In summer, licensed salmon fish, nelma, pike are caught on the net, and white-breasted smelt and smelt are caught with fishing rods. But the city dwellers prefer to catch smelt from under the ice, using a spoon in winter, because at this time of the year it is large, fat, with caviar and smells of cucumber. At the end of April, every year on the ice of the estuary, a competition is held to catch this fish "Korfest". Of the inhabitants of the estuary waters, beluga whales with their cubs always attract the attention of tourists, arranging whole dance performances, and Arctic seals (seals, as they are affectionately called in Chukotka), which stick out their curious faces near fishing nets and surround boats carrying passengers to another estuary shore.

Key dates in the history of Chukotka
XXX - V111 thousand BC e. - the oldest paleolithic traces of man in Chukotka.
11 - 1 millennium BC - the spread of the culture of wild deer hunters in Chukotka.
End of 11 millennium BC e. - the beginning of the formation of the Eskimo culture of sea hunters.
1644 - the foundation of the Nizhnekolymsky prison.
1648-1649 - swimming S. Dezhnev and F. Popov around the Chukotka Peninsula from the river. Kolyma on the r. Anadyr.
1652 - construction of the Anadyr prison.
1728 - the voyage of Vitus Bering to the shores of Chukotka and the Bering Strait.
1771 - Liquidation of the Anadyr prison.
1778 - I.S. Shmalev concludes a peace treaty with the Chukchi.
1778 - J. Cook's voyage to Cape Ryrkaypiy.
1883 - opening of the first parish school in Chukotka in the village. A.E. Markovo Dyachkov.
1888 - organization of the Anadyr district.
1889 - the establishment of the post Novo-Mariinsk L.F. Grinevetsky (now Anadyr).
1897 - the first census of the population in Chukotka was carried out by the head of the district N.L. Gondatti.
1909 - the creation of the Chukotka district with the center in Provideniya Bay. In 1912 the county center was moved to the village. Whalen.
1914 - opening of the first radio station in Chukotka.
December 16, 1919 - The First Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka took power into its own hands.
February 2, 8, 1920 - members of the First Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka were shot.
1924 - the Committee for Assistance to the Nationalities of the Northern Borders was created under the All-Russian Central Executive Committee
On October 7, 1925, the Anadyr and Chukotka regions were formed.
August 1928 - the Chukotka cultural base was organized (Lawrence Bay).
December 10, 1930 - the creation of the Chukotka National District.
December 17, 1932 - the Main Directorate of the Northern Sea Route (GUSMP) was created.
April 22-28, 1932 - 1st Chukotka District Congress of Soviets.
July 10, 1933 - Chaunsky district was organized.
October 28, 1933 - the first issue of the newspaper "Sovetskaya Chukotka" (now "Far North") was published.
1933 - 1934 - expedition led by O.Yu. Schmidt along the Northern Sea Route on the Chelyuskin motor ship.
October 1, 1939 - the Anadyr Pedagogical School was opened.
1941 - opening of the first mine "Pyrkakai" and the mine "Valkumey" for the extraction of tin in the Chaunsky region.
May 18, 1951 - By the decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR, the district was removed from the subordination of the Kamchatka region and transferred to the Khabarovsk Territory.
December 3, 1953 - Formation of the Magadan Region, which included the Chukotka National District.
1954 - the Iultinsky district was formed.
1957 - Beringovsky and Providensky districts were formed.
1958 - the first industrial gold was mined on the river. Ichuveem.
February 15, 1960 - the first state farms were organized: "Markovsky", "Anyuisky", "Kanchalansky".
1960 - the Markovsky district was abolished.
1961 - Vostochno-Tundra region was renamed into Bilibinsky.
January 12, 1965 - pos. Anadyr received the status of a city.
April 6, 1967 - Pevek settlement received the status of a city.
1967 - The Anadyr TV Center conducted the first TV show.
August 7, 1968 - geologists of the Anadyr complex expedition discovered a gas field of industrial importance.
September 21, 1969 - reburial of members of the First Revolutionary Committee of Chukotka in Anadyr.
December 7, 1970 - the first floating power plant "Northern Lights" in the Arctic was powered.
December 9, 1970 - the district was awarded the Order of the Red Banner of Labor.
December 31, 1970 - Bilibino television station Orbita was put into operation.
March 15, 1972 - Anadyr TV station "Orbita" was put into operation.
December 29, 1972 - the district was awarded the Order of Friendship of Peoples.
January 28, 1973 - the first signs of oil were found in the Anadyr region.
1973 - the Shmidtovsky district was formed.
January 12, 1974 - the first block of the Bilibino nuclear power plant gave current.
August 24, 1974 - the Palace of Pioneers (now the Palace of Children's Creativity) was opened in Anadyr, funds for the construction of which were collected by the pioneers of the whole country.
1977 - the district received the status of autonomous.
February 1979 - regular non-stop passenger flights Moscow-Pevek began.
January 1980 - the first flight of the Tu-154 Moscow - Anadyr.
February 1983 - the first non-stop flight of the Il-62 aircraft en route Moscow - Anadyr.
1989 - The city of Anadyr became twinned with the city of Bettle (Alaska).
1992 - Chukotka Autonomous Okrug became an independent subject of the Russian Federation.

 


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